Two newbie questions:

1. How many liters of tranny oil do I need after draining, changing the filter, and reattaching the pan? My manual states 4, but upon checking the level (after refilling with 4 liters), I can't make heads or tails (level past MAX with engine running)...

2. Should cables running from the engine plugs match firing order when attached to the dist cap (1432)? I tested this theory by attaching cables to the cap via the 1432 principle-- car started and quickly died. Probably a no-brainer, but I just want to make sure my cables are properly attached, since I'm having firing/erratic idle issues. I need to check my air intake components just to be sure nothing's blocked or leaking...

Thanks in advance!

 

it depends on what transmission you got.
4 liters, but you need to drain the torque converter too. there is a small drain plug on it.

yes, it should match. depending on what car/engine you got, adjust the housing to retard or advanced position.

 

I have a 2.3 190, auto tranny.

How do I access the drain plug on the torque converter? What size socket do I need to turn the engine to get to it?

Thanks.

 

was your car a mercedes-benz?

 

This is a Mercedes-Benz forum, correct?

 

6.5 IF YOU DRAIN THE CONVERTER TOO..

 

yes, this a mercedes forum.

i'm sorry for asking... i only do it for the benifet of the doubt. please don't be offended. am just trying to help and get nothing at all.

the figure number 20 is the drain plug for torque converter.

it must be on a 6:00 position, and you can use allen key wrench to open it. (i think it was 6mm?).

thank you for your help.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1/575A52F8787741279C6CB2670A6A8893.jpg[/IMG]

 

Thanks! No offense intended, BTW.

The problem has now shifted to a leak issue with the drain plug on a new tranny pan (with bolt+gasket secured). Old pan was too damaged to work properly.

When I bought the new pan [from a dealership], the entire underside was painted, making it extremely difficult to remove the drain plug. I stripped the plug on the first try (despite clearing an area around the edge of the plug-- my allen didn't have sufficient grip in the keyhole), then had to resort to using a vise grip to muscle it out. Bought a replacement plug, but discovered bolt was slightly too loose to seal out oil. I've recently tried gasket maker for a "perma-seal," since the dealership won't give me a replacement pan. However, even with sealant, the drain hole leaks despite new washer.

Any suggestions? Willing to purchase a new pan, since I've had to reinstall pan+new oil four timesduring the past week.

Thanks.

 

use the aluminum washer seal.

 

Sleepwalker, ever run into a stuck oil sump drain plug? First time changing oil on my '92 300E and I could not get the plug out ... not with a socket, not with a box end wrench, and eventually not with a pair of vise grips or a pipe wrench! I guess my next option is to drill the plug and try to get it with an ez-out. First time I ever ran into this problem in 25 years of changing oil on cars. Any better suggestions? Regards.