I've a 1993 190 E 2.6 , and recently the ABS light stays on most of the time, the thing is in cold weather if the light is on it takes forever to start the car, and when it finaly does start after numerous tries and hitting the gas pedal repeatedly it labors at low RPM's,, but if I happen to start it with the ABS light off, which will happen at times, I starts first shot , choke and all, it almost seems like something is shorting out the cold start.. Anyone had a similar problem or a possible cure?? where is the ABS nerve center, can I dissable it to see if it is the module that is faulty or not??

Thanks in advance for the help guys

 

Wave,

My 1990 2.6 is doing the exact same thing! The car has been sitting for six months now. Maybe we both can get help on this.

I normally do all my own repair work, but this one has me stumped.
I pulled all the fuel injection components and tested them seperately.
I'm sifting through the throttlebody now looking for leaks, cracks, whatever.
Iv'e replaced all the rubber hoses etc., and tested the O2 sensors.
I'm about ready to turn it over to the dealer, but my wife says I'm too stubborn to do that.

Charles

 

Hey Charles, nice to se I'm not the only one here with the same prob,, I dont think it is the mechanical portion of the fuel delivery that's making this mess, but it seems much more to be electrical that somehow is killing the cold start, I've changed the battery, the other was a few volts low, also had a loss of sprk , so in went a new coil, still to no avail did it change anything, like you I do all my own work, but yes this one is a stumper, so whatever the electrical prob is, it's either originating from the ABS and hence shorting the cold start, or it is the cold start shorting out the ABS system, either or,, if I could only locate the ABS switch and or the ABS controler, I could disconnect it to see if the problem originates from there.
I'll keep you posted and whatever developments arrises,,

Mike

 

wave,
i think ABS system is not related to your problem during cold start. You batter check the cold start valve maybe it doesn't
open or it doesn't work properly



cezvenz

 

cezvenz , thanks for the reply, but if it wasen't causing or being part of the problem, then I wouldn't be seeing a relation between the two, if the ABS light stays on at start up it fails to start as it should only with a lot of coaxing of the accelerator pedal, after about a half dozen tries it will finally start, but idle is rough and seeks to shut down, now if I try to start it, and turn the key the ABS light is on, wont start, sometimes if I'm lucky I'l try and on either the 3 rd or 4 th try then the lABS light goes off, it will start like a charm,, like it should, goes into cold start RPM's are excellent,

so I tend to think that their is a relation, from the manual,, "if ABS light remains on, check charging system for low voltage on battery, and also low volts charge on alternator"all has been checked are in the normal parameters for proper charging/running

 

Hi Wave,

I said throttlebody, I meant air flow sensor.

Have you checked the plastic wire conduit that runs along the intake side of the head. My wires looked pretty well baked, no copper showing though. Great place for a short to happen.

I have the repair manual...I'm looking up that ABS control unit...

Charles

 

Hey wave,

The ABS/ASR control module is in the battery compartment, directly behind the battery.
It's the one with the long single plug running from left to right in a finned aluminum case.

Oh man. according to this manual it could be fifty different things causing that....

Charles

 

Well, I think I'm on No. 19....I'll let you know what I find...

Charles

 

Hi folks. I'm having the same problem on my 92 190 2.0. Same thing, ABS light on = bitch to start. They're obviously related, for months, a squirt of WD40 was curing it. However, the day the car was sold, the bloody thing has started again and won't go away.
I've read something about the Over Voltage Protecter, where is this? Help!