hey guys,

i just changed my rear brakes for my clk, now all the brake fluid came out while changing the pads,
is there a way to make the brake pedal harder so that it stops as soon as i hit the pedal, cause i added brake oil till it reads max, then pumped the brake and it still is not hard, you got to floor it just to stop the car going 10mph.

any suggestions let me know guys

thanks,
CLK500KID

 

Yes, you need to bleed the system, was this the first time you change the pads? you supposed to open the bleeder screw and bleed of some brake fluid and CLOSE IT. Then push back the pistons to release pressure on the pads take the out and then top off the brake fluid, pump the pedal a few time to make sure the pads are seated. Now you will have to bleed the entire systems are air has gotten into it. You can do it by yourself there one person, bleeding kits out there. But the best way is to start at the farthest wheel from the fluid tank or the right rear, have someone pump the pedal three times and hold it down, open the bleeder screw on the wheel and bleed out the fluid until there are no more air bubbles. CLOSE the bleeder valve before the person lets pressure off the brakes, then work your way around the car. Sounds as if your a first timer, I would take it to a pro or get a good reference book on brakes. I've been fooling around with cars for 30 years and don't do any brake work, as if you don't do it right, well you found out what happens.

 

i did the front on my car about a month ago, so i just did the back, just wondering if there is a way to adjust the pedal so that the pedal catches it faster

thanks c280

 

kid, you have a mushy brake syndrome. that means you have air bubbles in your brake lines. if this happened after you replaced your rear pads, you know your brake job caused this.

you definitely need to bleed the air out like C280 suggested. (there could be other problems in your system too.)

i understand you want to set the brake pedal so that it stops the car with little pedal movement. it does not work that way. car brakes are not cable-pulled brakes like the ones on bicycles.

car brakes squeeze tighter and tighter as hydraulic fluid pressure builds up in the line. (thats why pro brake-lines are advertised to be swelling-free.) movement or travel of your brake pedal becomes less and less relevant as more and more electronics are involved. DO NOT TRY TO ADJUST THE TRAVEL OF THE BRAKE PEDAL.

if you want your brake system to catch better, there are many things you can consider. special rotors and discs, softer brake pads. i am sure you know all this already.

the most important thing...if your car still goes without significant deceleration after you hit the brakes, this is serious problem that needs attention.

 

Hi,
As stated by C280 you have got air in the system and need to rebleed the brakes.

TAKE CARE. Having inadequate brakes is NOT recommended!

Getting air out of ABS systems can sometimes be tricky since air trapped in the electronic valve block (underbonnet) may need to have unions loosened etc to help air get out.

However, why did you have to break into the fluid line?

Normal procedure is to
1. Remove old pads.
2. Check disc wear is within tolerance. (Circumferential ridge cuts into Pad warning circuit prematurely)
3. Push caliper pistons back (Use special tool or be VERY careful using something like a blunt screwdriver)
NOTE: As you push the pistons back you need to ensure...
A. That brake fluid resevoir does not overflow. If there is a danger of this suck / syphon excess fluid off.
B. Once one piston has been pushed back place new pad or suitable packer into caliper so as to prevent movement of this piston whilst other piston(s) are being pushed back.
4. Press brake pedal once everything has been reassembled to ensure that brake pads are in contact with the disk. If the pistons have been pushed fully back the pad may not be in contact with the disk and it may take a push or two to get the pads to the correct position to work normally and give the correct pedal feel. Unless you do this the brakes may not work on the first application in the tight confines of the garage!!
NOTE: Tighten wheel bolts up in correct sequential order and to the correct Torque. This is to ensure that the discs do not get distorted and cause judder etc.

Hope this helps,

Stuart

 

Hi,
As stated by C280 you have got air in the system and need to rebleed the brakes.

TAKE CARE. Having inadequate brakes is NOT recommended!

Getting air out of ABS systems can sometimes be tricky since air trapped in the electronic valve block (underbonnet) may need to have unions loosened etc to help air get out.

However, why did you have to break into the fluid line?

Normal procedure is to
1. Remove old pads.
2. Check disc wear is within tolerance. (Circumferential ridge cuts into Pad warning circuit prematurely)
3. Push caliper pistons back (Use special tool or be VERY careful using something like a blunt screwdriver)
NOTE: As you push the pistons back you need to ensure...
A. That brake fluid resevoir does not overflow. If there is a danger of this suck / syphon excess fluid off.
B. Once one piston has been pushed back place new pad or suitable packer into caliper so as to prevent movement of this piston whilst other piston(s) are being pushed back.
4. Press brake pedal once everything has been reassembled to ensure that brake pads are in contact with the disk. If the pistons have been pushed fully back the pad may not be in contact with the disk and it may take a push or two to get the pads to the correct position to work normally and give the correct pedal feel. Unless you do this the brakes may not work on the first application in the tight confines of the garage!!
NOTE: Tighten wheel bolts up in correct sequential order and to the correct Torque. This is to ensure that the discs do not get distorted and cause judder etc.

Hope this helps,

Stuart

 

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP GUYS,

i just got them fixed, just found out that my front pads are worn pretty good, in just about 10,000 miles, lol, anyway the back brakes are two calipers so that is why i just had to bleed them, also as i drove the car everything went back to normal

thank you

 

hi i have 2006 c280 are brakes hard to do and brake bleeding any good suggestions would be greatly aprreciated

thank you