I have found an 87 300sdl for sale with 329000miles. It has been taken to the dealer for all of it's regular maintenance. I am new to diesel engines and older mercedes for that matter. I have owned a 93' E320 and loved it. I have heard these 300 sdl's are pretty bullet proof and will run forever if well cared for.
I am wanting to know what I need to be watchful for before buying. The sole owner said he has not had to put much money into in repairs, he has just done typical maintenance. (will I end up being the one to foot the bill?)-In researching the 300sdl I am seeing there are maybe some things that would need to be done at the 250k mark. I don't want to get in a situation where I am the one that winds up with the expensive repairs.
I did test drive it and noticed it was real slow coming on (kinda anticipated this with the turbo diesel) when it shifted from what I would think was 2nd to third, the shift was somewhat harsh. Is this normal or is there something to be concerned about?
Any help with various things to look for in the maintenance records to assure I am not going to have costly repairs in the near future.
Input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Kevin.

 

More the most part, all that is need ed to keep these Benzes of them years running is maintence. Usually alot of times when something breaks, it's due to something not being cared for properly (i.e water pump failure and over heating due to a previous owner not using the right coolant and a cheap non-MBZ certified water pump.)

The easy way to put yourself at ease, compare your list of things to be done at 250K and see if there is records of that stuff been done at that time. A few things I know off the top of my head that needed to be done at and or before that time is of course the timing chain should have been replaced and or checked or adjusted at between 100,000 to 150,000 miles. By 329,000 miles it definately should have been replaced at least once or twice and adjusted a few times between. And alot of people say that the differential fluid should be checked and or changed at this time while others say if there is no noise, leave it alone. I rarely ever heard of these cars having any diff. probs at any miles 100,000 and up to 350,000+. A little "sweating" is normal though but if it's leaking and dripping get it fixed.
As far as the harsh shifting, see when the last time the fluid was changed. Something as simple as a few grains and or a dirty filter can cause harsh shifting. Or it could be up to a worn out transmission, which is not a bad thing at this time since most transmissions are said to have a life expectancy of about 200,000-250,000 miles without any worn internal parts. It doesn't sound as if the transmission is totally shot, but first try getting a good cleaning and see what happens. It might still be good.
Also look for abnormal sagging, as that's an indicator that the shocks are shot, not too expensive.
At that mile depending on the climate of car located look for little things like rust and dry rubber parts and very squishy hoses.

(More to follow. Ran out of time right now.)

 

Thanks for your time so far! Look forward to getting more info. in the future. Any chance the tranny problem could be an adjustment of some type?

 

Hi since it is an 87 make sure that the recall for the trap oxidizer has been done. As far as i know Mercedes will still honor this recall and will also replace the turbo if any damage has been done to it by the trap oxidizer. About the transmission first off check the fuild level that will cause the harsh shifting also like Blckwolf said a dirty filter or fuild will cause the same problem. If the car leaks a small amount of oil that if fine all diesels (mercedes or others) will leak some oil with high mileage. 329,000 miles is really not that many if the car has been taken care of mine has 296,000 miles and still runs strong. Assuming the price is right and all the electronics are working correctly even if the engine or trans goes it is worth repairing because once u do replace those items u might as well has a new car because it will last longer than u will want to keep the same car lol. Good luck and i hope u are happy with it if u get it.

 

What are the circumstances of the "harsh shift"? My 85 300D shifts quite smoothly while cruising but under heavy throttle it shifts "with a purpose". That's just MB (and I wouldn't have it any other way). If it doesn't "hunt and peck" trying to select a gear and shifts smoothly when not under heavy [throttle] load I would think you're OK. If you have to replace the tranny a rebuild can be had for $1200. As far as maintenance, you need regular oil changes (DUH) - I go every 5K and the filter every 2.5K - and the timing chain/water pump should be changed every 100K or so. I bought mine with 200K and will be doing the timing chain/water pump ASAP. For future info, you could extend your oil change interval AND have cleaner oil by installing a bypass oil filter. If the car rides "loose" you may want to replace suspension components (bushings, shocks, etc. as needed) but I'd let a qualified shop analyze it. As previously posted, sometimes these oldies sag, but that's really a spring issue, shocks keep the wheels planted firmly to the ground besides absorbing energy from encountered road irregularities. Springs "hold the car up" and tend to retain their shape but these are OLD cars and they do carry quite a load. As also mentioned above suspension components are not too costly. Common chassis issues are rust in sunroof area, bottom of windshield, fenders at rear of footwells and water collecting on the cabin floor. Dashboards tend to crack from UV exposure as on many cars of this age. Then you have ordinary "old car" stuff: brakes, steering (mine needed passenger side tie rods), A/C and chassis damage. That's a start anyway.

So if I were you here is what I would check for. Excessive smoke on startup. White or blue smoke. [Excessive] Blowby (it does have lots of miles). For me these are "NOGO"s. Then there's rough (inconsistent) idle - could just be air, but could also be injector/pump problems, electrical issues (windows, sunroof, lights), badly worn brake components (not talking about pad replacement) - can be costly, minor rust (no holes), funky tranny. These are "give me a discount"s ($500~$1500). If the car has chassis damage (other than fender bender dents or minor rust) I walk away. Minor dents and rust can be cheaply repaired but serious ones require big bucks and cancerous rust is the death toll (but you may be able to arrest it with Rust Bullet if it isn't already on life support). Just about any old car will need repair or at least attention, unless it has just been "done". I usually plan on at least shocks, balance, alignment, fluid/filter and timing/water pump changes on any used car I buy just as price of admission (that's $500~$750 right there).

The good thing is once you get your 80's MB in good shape, you will have a reliable car that will repay you over time - it won't rattle to pieces like cars built today (and also you can drive it on free fuel, but that's another topic).

 

thanks for the input everyone! i feel like I am getting a little better grasp on what I might have my hands on. I am hoping the tranny issue will be resolved by checking the fluid level and changing the fluid. The paint is faded on the roof and their is a bubbled up rust spot on the drivers door where the molding meets in the middle of the door. The left rear tail light needs replaced, anyone have a price on that?
Other than needing a little doctoring with the rust on the door and a new coat of paint it is in fairly good condition. Everything works including A/C, the only other thing I can see wrong is the front seats are power and for some reason neither of them will move any farther foward and I am quite confident they should seeing that I am 6 foot tall and could just reach the gas pedal. Does anyone have any ideas to what would prevent BOTH seats from going any further forward>? With everything I have listed on the car so far, does $2500 seem like a fair asking price?