I am not as well seasoned with the 617 as I am the 603, but based on many many posts I have read, I still own one btw, with good maintenance, valves adjusted (they do need that for time to time) there is very likely much more life left in it than you may realize. How's the body and all suspension parts, transmission? Will the car go another 100K, I'd bet the engine will win the race wherever it ends up!

 

Sorry ben, its actually 200k, lol

 

The first Mercedes I purchased was a 1980 240D. I had intended to drive it myself but my 16 year old daughter needed a car. We've had that car for over a year now and I couldn't have asked for a better starter for a teen. The car is slllllooooooooooow but steady and I feel that she is a lot safer in it than about anything else I could have put her in. She has mastered manually shifting first to second (on and automatic) and she really seems to love the little car. She likes it even more since we installed a nice stereo in it

I bought the car CHEAP so I was aware it had a few "issues". I have repaired most everything execpt the A/C and transmission. The transmission shifts first, second and third before the car even gets moving good. I replaced the vacuum switch on the valve cover and that helped a bit but it FLARES really badly so I just have her shift it manually and it runs great. I need to try to adjust the modulator to see if that will inprove the shift quality at all. There seems to be no "procedure" to make it shift correctly. Everything I've read about adjusting the transmission makes it sound like magic preformed only by the elite chosen few. I've worked on every kind of transmission from 3 speed manuals to Allison AT 540 and 545's automatics in school buses but I can't seem to grasp the concept on how this WAY to complicated system works. Oh well! for every reliable car there has to be an achilles heel (for Volvos it's the fuel pump and OD relay and a stupid little 25 amp "system" fuse).

We live in the south so it would be nice if I could get her A/C working. The system has no freon in it and the belt is missing. I looks like the hose that runs under the engine may have a hole in it. I need to pull the hose assembly and see what it would take to repair it. If I knew for sure the compressor was good I would work on it but then I'd have to convert it to 134A ---- it's always something.

If the 240 were to die today I can honestly say that we got our $600 out of it.

Drive safe and use alternate fuels

Tony T

 

The "bowden" cable, running from throttle linkage to transmission adjusts shift points. The modulator valve adjusts flaring.

Find the cable and where is joins the throttle linkage. There is a white plastic ferule that by turning it adjusts the cable. Shifting points are at or around 2000 rpm for each gear generally.

 

What exactly is flaring?

My car has a vacuum leak, can't shut the motor off unless the drivers door is locked. So I am not going to go very far in diagnosing my transmission shifting issues until I fix that. But when cold I often find it refuses to shift out of low. Then when it does, it effectively goes into neutral. I have to put it back in neutral and let ir rest for a few seconds, then put it in drive and it cooperates.

Also my trans tends to want to jump a gear, particularly 2-4, when accelerating. Mash the throttle and it will usually shift more appropriately, and will usually downshift if going slower than 40 mph.

I am assuming that vacuum leaks can lead to some of these issues, perhaps all. But the statement that the bowden cable controls shift points makes me wonder.

 

Yes, I think your tranny problems go beyond just vacuum too! A sticky B-2 piston can cause similar issues. There is an additive called TRANS-X available from most all auto parts stores and what it does is dissolve the sticky substance from moving parts including B-2 piston, valves, etc. I'm no tranny expert, but many a mechanic vouch for it's effectiveness.

I would do a complete fluid change including the torque converter, there is a drain plug on them, you just have to get under there and turn the converter until you see it thru the an screened access port. Change tranny filter too. It may be clogging and restricting flow.

Flaring is when the engine races before engaging the gear. The modulator valve adjusts flaring. A harsh shift is actually better than a soft shift with a little flaring, but not too hard a shift such as banging into gears, that just transmits shock to drive shaft flex discs, center bearing and differential, eventually breaking something!

 

Trans-X it is. Since I got this 240D I've put in a new windshield (big crack), changed oil, filter & changed antifreeze - flushed radiator & drained block and replaced air filter. Next weekend I'll try to do a tranny service. Maybe best to put the trans stuff in now & drive for a week. I do about 500 miles a week, mostly highway, so that gives it some time to run warm and perhaps dissolve gum.

 

I just have to chip in here, with the combination of sloooow diesel cars and boats.

I cut my mechanic teeth helping out my grandpa do maintenance on the Buda 6-cyliner marine diesel in his powerboat. Then in 1980 I got to peek at the motor in a colleague's 1959 M-B 180-D, saw that brass Bosch injector pump, and fell in love -- it looked SOOO much like the one on Grandpa's cruiser! So I bought the car -- and I still have it.

But slow? Zero to 60, same day service -- NOT!! It used to hit 68 if you had the patience, but the rear axle howled and I swapped in a rear axle from my gas 190 parts car, and now top speed is about 56. Climbs the mountains better though, and that's where I live, so I'll live with it.

 

What is the fuel economy of a 59 180D????

 

1959 180-D gets right about 30 MPG. Given the limited performance (48 hp) you'd expect better, but it weighs in at 2700 lb which doesn't help much.