I got the following radiator flush from Shuman forums.... Henry and crew are some very smart Mercedes mechanics!
http://www.schumanautomotive.com/for...ead.php?t=2020

 

In my Mercedes maintenance manual it says to run the engine for a while with both the radiator cap open and the drain open, so the engine's circulating fresh water out. I guess I'd just be a little wary about it this time of year when the water that's coming out of the hose is particularly cold. Couldn't this potentially crack a block?

So What I was going to do is just run the engine till everything's warm and mixed up but not hot and then shut it off, let it thoroughly drain, refill with coolant mix, and then drive it around for a week or so, and since coolant's so cheap, I would just repeat. Somehow I feel like it's not really necessary to do all of this reverse business.

But then in some other thread some guy was talking about his car and being like "Yea it's about time to put in a new radiator" simply based on the car's age. What's that all about?

 

Hey I Just thought I would let you guys know how it worked out. Just like with my alternator problem, the belt wasn't tight enough. Never underestimate the destructive power of the undertightened belt.

 

How did you tighten the belt?

I've got an overheating problem and really don't want to spend $130 for a new fan clutch when it's probably a loose belt. Also probably have an alternator problem as well. You mentioned that they're connected.

 

It was actually extremely of tricky for me because my mbz is 31 years old and who knows when someone tried to tighten the belt last because the bolts were basically all frozen. It took me and my small assortment of tools 3 days of trying to finally get the bolts to loosen up so I could tighten. You may have to adapt this information to yourself:

To start off with, I bought a new belt for it because the old one was so raggy that it looked like itd break if I tightened it.
I used a scissors and cut the old belt off, then put the new belt on, by which the method is pretty self explanatory.

My belt rides 3 pulleys: the big engine pulley, the radiator-fan/coolant-pump pulley and the alternator pulley. The pulley responsible for the belt's tightness is the alternator pulley in my 300D's case.

So the goal was essentially to move the alternator out away from the other pulleys so that the belt would be tighter. This requires loosening of 2 bolts, and rotating of a tooth-headed bolt.

The alternator is attached to the car by a toothed bolt on top and a regular bolt on bottom. First I loosened the regular bolt. Then I wanted to rotate the toothed bolt out along it's track. This is only possible if the bolt that holds that track on is loosened up, so the track may tilt downwards. So I loosened the bolt that holds the track. Then I was able to alternate between using a hammer to pound the distal end of the track down, and using a simple monkey wrench to turn the tooth-headed bolt so that it moves along the track outwards. Once the alternator had been rotated out far enough to hold the belt tight (approx 1/2 inch give under 20lb fingerplay) I tightened the hell out of those bolts as the tension in the belt would be 24/7/365 trying to pull the alternator back towards everything else so it wouldn't be tight anymore.

Kind of tough to describe. Yours is probably pretty similar. Just get in there with a flashlight and it will all make sense after looking at it for a bit. Good luck.