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'85 300D with Hood/Trans/Dead Mouse Issues

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Old 09-16-2008, 03:54 PM
misterkennedy's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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Default '85 300D with Hood/Trans/Dead Mouse Issues

Hi Folks
Glad to have joined this forum- I'm a thrilled new 300D owner (1985 Turbo in beautiful shape w/ 100,000mi on an engine/transrebuild)with need of some advice. 3 Issues:

1. As of this morning I can't pop the hood; the under-dash lever and cable still seem to be attached as is the front grill pop-out tab, but pulling the hood lever doesn't quite release the internallatch. Any way I can get in there without that dash lever?

2. There's a dead mouse (or some such decaying creature) somewhere in the ventilation system that's blocking airflow and creating an odor that you can easily imagine. Any moderately easy extraction/cleaning tips for an automotive novice?

3. She drives strong but the transmission shifts with a bit of a bump/hiccup when accelerating/deccelerating between 15-25mph. It seems to shift when it should and it doesn't slip, but that first shift is just rocky and doesn't sound smooth. I'm more accustomed to by lady's '97 C220 which shifts like butter- is this just normal for an older 300D, or does it just need a minor adjustment/fluid change, or might this be a sign of a seriously troubled trans? Could I be further damaging something by continuing to drive it before fixing the issue?

I'm in love with this car and will do what I have to to get her in shape, but I can't afford much work at the moment so I've got to find out if I can fix the first 2 issues myself and wait a while on the 3rd one- any help??
Thanks!

 
  #2  
Old 09-17-2008, 08:47 AM
Drrty240D's Avatar
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Posts: 174
Default RE: '85 300D with Hood/Trans/Dead Mouse Issues

Welcome. The 300D is a fine car!

The interior dash lever is designed as an anti-theft device (obviously) so you will have difficulty opening the hood with a broken cable or disconnected latch. You'll need patience and ingenuity here.

If you can disconnect theinside pull leverfrom the left kickpanel (a couple of phillips screws) you may be able to manually pull the cable further, thereby allowing the hood latch to disengage. After you get the hood open make necessary adjustments andreset thecable locking set screw / mechanism near the latch to prevent future trouble.

The inside components of the HVAC system in this cararedifficult to work on. For example, replacing the heater core requires complete removal of the dashboard. Not fun or convenient to say the least. Proceed at your own peril. You can get a complete PDF of the Service Manual for this car (Torrent posted by ForcedInduction, I think) previously on this forum. Use the Search Function to find it and then download the file.

If you have a dead mouse in there you going to want to remove it or deal with a lingering smell (probably forever) as the carcass will dehydrate/rehydrate with seasonalhumidity changes.

Transmission shifiting problems are a known issue with the 123 chassis, and again, if you use the Search Function you fill find lots of information. An inexpensive fluid, filter and pan gasket change is always a great idea. You may find your vacuum modulator has gone bad, or you may find one or more vacuum leaks. Shifting is vacuum controlled in your car.

Remember, the Search Function is your friend on this forum. Once again, welcome.
 
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