Hi all,

New here and new to Mercedes as well. I have literally spent hours trying to find answers to some very simple questions but my searches have been pretty fruitless. At the rate I'm going I'll be in a nursing home before I have cured my ignorance. Then I found this forum, so glad to be here. [sm=bounceybounce.gif]

I have been considering buying a mid 70's to late 80's Mercedes and am totally confussed by all the class designations. I've figured out D=diesel and TD=turbo diesel but beyond that I am at a loss.

Is there some place anyone can point me where I can learn these. Also I'm seeing a lot of W followed by numbers. Are these some sort of chasis designation numbers? or am I totally off base on that one.

The price range out there is very wide and while I don't mind paying a little bit for something that is in really good condition and I'm going to live with for awhile I don't want to be taken advantage of because of ignorance.

One other question. What can I expect in general maintanence costs, tune up, fluid changes, that sort of thing. I can't find much info out there.

Any suggestions on where to find any of this would be appreciated. Help me cure my ignorance.[sm=smiley4.gif]

thanks
telulah

 

If you want to get the best bang for you money, buy from a dealer, and get a STARMARKED car, which gives you an extra year warranty. As far as cost of repair. The dealer around here labor is $90 per hour, but the cost of parts are very, very high on some items. Also, I've noticed a part for an S Class is more expensive then say a C Class. Maybe not all the time.

The next best is buying from a private owner, who has good maintenance records, preferably from a dealer or a private Mercedes shop. No extra warranty, but usually people will sell a car themselves as the trade in's are lower then they could get from a private sale. also, get a book, they are quite a few available on how to buy a used car. Barnes and Noble have a good selection. Look for straight body panels. I bring a strong magnet along with a piece of paper, so not to scratch the car, I put it on various body panels in different sections, if it falls off there has been a repair. Bumpers are made of plastic so that doesn't count. I looked at one car a C230 I think it was, and the almost the entire rear quarter panel was Bondo. Could mean big trouble. this was a private seller. That's when I went to the dealer and paid about $3K more. That was almost 4 years ago and my 99 C280 has been wonderful. There are a lot more things to look for, but I think you get the idea. Also, don't think that a dealer's car aren't lemon's either. One more point when I say dealer I mean a Mercedes Benz Dealer, not so lot selling cars out of a house trailer.

 

oh thats interesting!! i never knew about the magnet thingy... but does it apply to all cars... aren't the new models now made up of some kind of a strong fibre glass for less weight and less gas consumption and all that!?

 

Yes, Corvette's or any car that has fiberglass, carbon fiber, Alumimum panels, etc. Alumimum panels are usually cut out and replaced as I understand it is hard to work with, unless you the tech has been trained in Alumimum repairs. I'm not sure if for example a alumimum panel if a welded alumimum seam would attract a magnet. Audi's A8 uses a lot of Alumimum throughtout the body, some cars have hoods or trunk lids made from alumimum, door skins, also a repair tech would still us bondo to smooth out the repair. Carbon Fiber can also be repaired, my son's carbon fiber hood cracked and it was repaired, but the original pattern couldb' be matched, the crack was in a corner so the body shop painted it black and blended it into the pattern, it came out looking good.

 

Alan,

Thanks, off to the library (and maybe Barnes and Noble)

The magnet thing is something I hadn't thought of using on a Mercedes. Used to have classic Mustangs so I know it works.

The cars I have been considering have all had their maintenance done at dealers. Looked at a very nice one that the owner had done all the maintenance and the price was right (the car looked great and it ran very well but still I was just a bit apprehensive, trust issues )

Thanks for the advise.

telulah

 

If you came to my house to look at my car and went to put a magnet and peice of paper on it, I'd kick you straight in the gonads so hard your teeth would fall out !


Now if you asked if you could use a magnet and a fine peice of cloth, then I'd consider it.

just something to think about

 

Telulah, welcome to the forum!

I'd have to say that I disagree with wizard when he says the "best bang for your buck" is at the dealer. I totally agree with everything else he stated !

I would say that a dealership would be the most expensive, yet safest route to take. Safest in the fact that most dealers want you to be somewhat happy so you at least have some sort of recourse on issues. Also you have a warranty and he is right about some of these parts can get REALLY expensive. Get a warranty if you can.


But in reality -- let's face it, the "best bang for your buck" is when someone is in a pinch and they need to dump it quick.
Of course there's no recourse for issues, no warranty etc... but man can you get some GREAT deals !

just my .02 cents

 

 

 

Do asked first before sticking magnets on cars in lots, thin cardboard is bette then paper also. But I bought my car from a dealer. It was a off lease, service at the dealership and STARMARKED, and still had a year of factory warranty left, and I purchased a additional year STARMARK for the power train, around $700. So the car's warranty finally ran out last month. Only had tow occasions to use the warranty the three years plus I have the car, it was driven by a doctor. He had left his business card in the owners manual, so that's how I knew. It was also leased from the dealer I bought it from. A lot of off lease cars are shipped all over the country to be sold. Asked the question, even if the car was serviced at the dealer, if the car was leased from the dealer. Also, run a CARFAX, a lot of people think it is a waste, for the $15 or whatever, I found out another car I was looking at had a possible speedo discrepancy problem, is a nicer way to say it. The mileage from the last state inspection was higher then the miles on the car, could have been a date entry error, but who wants to take a chance. I didn't say anything to the dealer, just passed on that particular car.