HELP! 2001 320 with PSE problem.
 

This is my first post because i just found this forum while trying to search for the problem. My parents picked up a 2001 SLK 320 and the keyless entry didn't work. So i started looking into it more and discovered that the center console unlock button doesn't work either. So while searchingthe forum i discovered more about it.Using the key to unlock the drivers door only does that door and the same for the trunk, it only opens itself. So istarted trying to find the fuse box in the trunk and it isn't under that panel on the right side. So i kind of dissmissed it because i started looking at the PSE and i had seen that the pins had corrosion and moisture on it so i cleaned it up and put it back together and nothing. So i assume the PSE is dead. But i also decided to start looking for that fuse box again and i couldn't find it. I pulled the RH side panel up as far as i could with the trunk still in place and i still could not find it.Thefuses under the hood are good.Another bit of info is that a tree hit the car and crushed the top and was replaced by the owner previous to the one we bought it from and alot of the panels in the trunk are missing the screws and plastic lock peices, so that leads me to beleive that some shady work was done. I don't see a point in replacing the PSE if there might be missing wiring. All the connectors are plugged into the PSE. So i guess my main question would be, where in the world could that fuse box have gone too? Does this year and model not have that F4(?) fuse box under the small flap over top the PSE?

RE: HELP! 2001 320 with PSE problem.
 

Hi,

Although I've done a lot of work investigating PSE problems I don't actually know for sure where/how the circuits are fused. Would have to look at WIS to confirm... which I don't have available.

I'm not sure on what basis you make your comment.....Does this year and model not have that F4(?) fuse box under the small flap over top the PSE? USA SLK security methodology is different to Euro/UK

I take it you have inspected the underbonnet fuse/electronic boxes and for info are aware of the one on the end of the dash. (drivers side)

However if you have corrosion on the white multipin plug on the PSE it is 99% certain your PSE is dead and can't be resurrected.
For info if your trunck interior panels are missing this will exacerbate the design issue which can allow water to "dribble" down the PSE harness leads into the PSE.

As a cross check I predict your Interior Dome Light doesn't work correctly (stays on when doors selected) since this system uses the same digital information regarding door switch position as does the PSE Security system. Likewise your surity system will not be working. If this is not the case then you need to further refine your problem definition since the possibility that your PSE remains OK increaseis in fact...Unlikely however.

Power (switched) for these circuits comes from the Body Electronics module in the engine bay (hence this is where I expect the fuse to be) and power is switched using a digital (door open/shut) signal down the CAN digital highway which has been shorted out by the corrosion both internally and externally at the PSE.

I also assume that your door locks don't work with the Remore but do so with the key.

You often also often get erroneous rear lamp cluster bulb out warnings since this is also part of the PSE function.

Hope this helps.

RE: HELP! 2001 320 with PSE problem.
 

It seems that the PSE is dead. There is no sign of life from it. No keyless entry, no alarm working, no autounlock with the key in the door, the center console unlock/lock switch does nothing. No flashing lights for securityin the car when its locked. I cannot locate the fuse box in the trunk, it is not where every one said it should be. I'm thinking that maybe the 2001 year did not have the fuse box in that location. Did it get moved somewhere else in this year?

I hope i reworded it enough.

Thanks,
Russell

RE: HELP! 2001 320 with PSE problem.
 

Did you look in the elctronics box as I suggested?

You have not confirmed that the Interior Dome light isn't working correctly when opening the doors.

IF (I repeat) IF the Interior Light is not working correctly when the doors open/shut then I'm not sure what else you want me to say.

The PSE is DEAD.

Stuart.

RE: HELP! 2001 320 with PSE problem.
 

No rear fuse box on post 2000. Check fuse 7 under hood.

see here in stickys under PSE may help? http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/

Bazzle

RE: HELP! 2001 320 with PSE problem.
 

Update:

Upon opening the PSE it was extremely corroded like i had been at the bottom of a lake. Replaced the PSE and all is well except the previous owner had taken the dome light bulbs out, so i replaced them and they are staying on. I haven't had time to check the door switches and trunk, or to check the actual dome light switch itself. But my PSE was DEAD!!!!!!! It had not one sign of life at all. Now to make sure this doesn't happen to it again and fix the dome light.

RE: HELP! 2001 320 with PSE problem.
 

The dome light (when auto is selected) is controlled by the PSE. Door switch signals go to the PSE and are then relayed to the Body Electrics module via the CAN in the engine compartment.

If the dome light is not working correctly this is usually associated with a PSE error.

Sure your PSE has a known origin?
Sure your multipin connector had no residual corrosion between the pins?

Good Luck.
Stuart

RE: HELP! 2001 320 with PSE problem.
 

The PSE is brand new from the local MB dealer. I will also try to clean the connectors on the PSE too. Do you know which connector is specific to the dome light and door switches?

RE: HELP! 2001 320 with PSE problem.
 

Hi,

OK So you can be sure the PSE is OK.
Can't remember door switch colours but easy to find out by removing door switch. Different LH to RH.
The dome light is wired to the N10 module in the elctronics bay in the engine compartment.
Communication between the PSE and N10 Body elerctronics controller is via the CAN which is two separate wires which are light green and the other white.
The signal down this Hi and Lo CAN is digital.

Stuart.

RE: HELP! 2001 320 with PSE problem.
 

I cleaned the connectors and the dome light started working fine so i decided to put bags over the PSE and when i got it all back together i realized the dome light was on again and won't shut off. I tried messing with the connectors and wiggling and cleaning and could never get the dome light to shut off again. I'm clueless now untill i can figure out the wires that are for the doors.

RE: HELP! 2001 320 with PSE problem.
 

Hi,

So if the light started working correctly you must be in the correct area...i.e. the multi connector. Any corrosion across the CAN causes this problem.

The key point about protecting the PSE is the wiring run. Moisture tracks along the cable.

It has been known for the door switches to be out of adjustment (due to a manufacturing issue). easy to check with a multimeter. Remove the switch at the door, determine wiring colour, replace, go to PSE, disconnect multiconnectors and determine continuity to earth with the doors open/closed. If always On or Off irrespective of door position you have a problem with switch adjustment. they need to be packed out or a bit of dense self adhesive foam (or gum!) placed on the door.

Stuart

RE: HELP! 2001 320 with PSE problem.
 

A month a go , my slk230 99 had too many problem.

It's start with the roof wasn't moving , either the glass, flasher light was going too fast, the S84 switch ( roof switch) wasn't blinking with ignition key in,my interior lamp was always on, like if a door was open. SO after looking to all switches ( roof and doors switches )and signal going to N10-3, I took a look at the pse pump.


I did some work on my PSE, I found some green deposit, my contacts was starting to be corroded. So, I did a few thing, like trying to recoat the pins with solder, please don't do this, it doesn't help. The real fix was to remove the connector, the white and the black completely, There you will find that top contacts, the one between the connector and the pc board are the one who goes bad. Clean contact, recoat with solder and re-install
the white and black connector will fix most of pse problem. I may admit, that it's not a so easy job, but, find a good electronic tech. , just be sure that he laugh when you ask if he can remove a connector from a pc board.

But, even after that, all my problem was still there. So, I conclude it was my N10-3 module, I tried to fix it, but I gave up, I was lucky enough to find a used one at 300$ ( MB here in Montréal was asking 1100$ ), so the used N10-3 from the scrap yard fix all problems. Having a good board, I was able to track the problem on my defective one, it's a tiny surface transistor A91 who in fact is a FMMT591ATA transistor cost about 40 cents.

The only problem I still have is when I depress the remote unlock door, the left side lights ( driver side ) don't always blink, I suspect another bad solder on the flasher module.

RE: HELP! 2001 320 with PSE problem.
 

Interesting.

The PSE communicates with the N!0-3 via a dedicated body CAN (Green/White Hi/Lo).

The deposits on the PSE are the USUAL cause of PSE problems where you have either incorrect Bulb Failure Warning, Alarm, Dome light or Locking issues. Pneumatic issues are also down to the PSE but the pump rather than the electronics side.

The N10-3 is the vehicle power supply controller so since you had problems with the roof etc, which do not interface with the PSE, it looks like you had potentially more than one problem.

The blue deposit (copper salts) is due to moisture either direct or as condensation onto the (white) connector. Common problem.

I've tried to mend many PSE's and although dismantling is straightforward removing the white PC board connectors is not easy. The PCB connector needs to be removed to gain access to the circuitry under the connector. I agree that I've only succeeded with repair once out of about 10 times. Repair is usually effected by replacement of the PSE. 30GBP on eBay was the easy option. I suspect that the CAN controller gets fried somehow and I don't have the expertse to replace/reflash this.

The door signal is connected to the PSE which transmits a CAN signal to the N10-3. If this is compromised (short circuit across the CAN) the N10-3 has a problem.

I've never actually encountered a problem with the N10-3 other than issues created by the shorted CAN which can often be spotted by simply unplugging the CAN (white PSE connector). Of course functions operated by the PSE will be inop but often other power supply issues are cleared.

Any additional info you have on the workings of the N10-3 would be appreciated. Pics etc. I have detail pics of the PSE circuitry and hardware.

Incidentally I was not aware that the door switch signal played any part in the op of the roof. I often use my roof (UK spec) with the doors open (and of course shut).

In anticipation of any additional info. PM me if you prefer. Reverse engineering without specifications is often challenging!

Stuart

I have a SLK230 2001. The other night after work I unlocked my car with the key and the alarm sounded and would not stop by putting the key on the ignition. The car shut down and the trunk locked up. I had to have it towed to a MB dealership. They say I need an PSE pump for $1200 and the car needs to be rekeyed. Does this sound right? Also when driving my car suddenly brakes and turns to the right then the ESP/BAS light comes on. It's very nerve wracking! Will this also be corrected? I just bought this car 6 months ago . The other problem is the convertible top doesn't work. The rear windows go down and it sounds like it wants to work but no deal. I guess I expected more from MB.