It keeps getting better. Alright, now it seems I took two steps forward and ten steps back. Now I have high idle but I dealt with this before. So now it could be the idle control valve, which is a prime suspect since there is no change plugged nor unplugged. Someone in the past got slick and put a rubber stopper in the ICV hose to "restrict" air flow and thus lower idle. Now I have to go get a voltmeter to see if the idle conrol valve is getting any input at all. Also wile I was under thr I heard this "air sucking" sound. I knew what that means. Vaccuum leak. The good news is I found it quick the bad news is that it's the throttle plate not closing all the way at idle. Which puts a monkey wrench into the situation since the whole point of the idle control valve is to by pass the throttle plate. On second hand I think the idle control valve is doing something as if I remove the valve the car wont start at all. I theorize that in this case the high idle is because the car is getting too much air. More than likely that if I take a voltage reading of the idle control valve plug I'd get a very weak or no reading at all because of the throttle plate not closing all the way, which in turns causes the throttle plate sensor to tell the idle control valve unit to tell the idle control valve that it...wait that makes no sense as then it would even out the air mixture and idle would be good. No, I think the throttle plate sensor thinks the trhottle plate is closed and extra air is getting in. If you press on the plate alone, the car stalls (too much air aka leaning the mixture.) if you use the throttle rod linkages insted (aka what the foot pedal is connected to) the engine revs. There is no hesitation, stumble or anything.I theorize if I can get that throttle plate to close all the way, then I can then see if it's the idle control valve that is dead or the unit. But if the throttle plate sensor believes the thottle plate s closed, then the volt meter should show strong voltage to the valve, which means that if the valve is good, then it should operate and the idle should be correct. If not, the idle should be high, which it is. If the throttle plate is allowing extra air in, then the mixture should be lean which should lead to poor idle and or rough idle, which the idle is not just high. While I theorize the throttle plate is not the root nor cause of the high idle problem it is something that should be fixed. I hypothysize that I should take a reading of the voltage at the plug of the idle control valve and if no voltage, then look at the unit. The nagain the throttle position sensor could be off, which is rare but can happen. Usually the fix for this adjusting the throttle rods, which may in fact close the throttle plate completely but I'm not sure how that will affect the idle control valve. First I'ma look at the throttle rod adjustments since they are fairly easy to get to, then at the same time check voltage to the icv. Then check the ICV unit and make sure it's straight and then the throttle plate sensor. If nothing happens then worse case senario is replacement of the Idle control unit and valve and or throttle plate sensor or new throttle plate if this one doesnt close all the way. The worse case is dealing with the throttle switch since it's a pain to get to and looks like the throttle plate has to come off and the various other stuff in the area down to the actual intake manifold. Which if I must go that far, I will go ahead and remove upper intake manifold and replace those pesky rubber seals that tend to go with again and create vaccuum leaks while I'm there. I think if I did whole process from start to finish my car will be out of commission for a few days assuming the parts come in at a reasonable time. But in the end, there should be no worry and hey, the cold start valve might work again, which I doubt so I'm going to order one anyways. Looks like a lot of money to go but I really do budget about $1,000 every year around jan-march for any major upkeep stuff. Last year it was front suspension. This year only been plug wires, dist cap/rotor spark plugs all to the tune of a hundred or so. SO this may be where about six hundred is bout to go and the last two hundred or so can go to them blasted vaccuum pods for the dash.
I thought the next few months I could turn my focus to my BMW but alas looks like that wont be the case.

 

alright the plot thickens. Tested the idle control valve and low and behold, the thing worked and the other test iCV when plugged into my car didnt work but also worked when plugged into the test base car. So conclusion, the ICV itself is fine. Now the plot thickens as a ICV is easy to replace but this means it might be electriocal which in a W126 can bea pain in the as to pin down. Now the suspects are the idle control module, ice cube fuse #1, theTPS, or the main thing behind the fire wall tha talso tells the coolant temp sensors and clod start valve what to do. The Main thing behind the fire wall is prime suspect as the coolant temp sensor(blue) doesnt work, th idle control valve doesnt work, the cold start valve doesnt work, and unplugged thing on the throttle body makes no difference, and I think that main thing behind the fire wall controls all of that. The OVP have been cleared of any suspicious activity since the relay itself is relative new and the fuse is new and still good. Plus besides those device mentioned prior, there is no ABS light, no surging, and no other weird happenings. Wonder where can I find another "main thingy behind the fire wall thing at? I think if I start there I can go from there. I just hope to god it aint the TPS itself or I'll have lots fo work to do and have to get the special wrenches for the throttle rods.

On side note this car had emission test in Jan and passed with flying colors. It was no where near failing and perfect exhuast gas and stuff. Even with a slightly high idle it passed way below the threshold. I mean you see these readings you'd think it was a brand new car.