that one is a control module for headlamp range adjustment. not that one.

what we are looking for is a black box with one big red wire attached to it and another two smaller red wire attached to it.

the X4/10 is mounted on the floor...not on the metal plate.

maybe it's on the driver's side. go check it.

 

Ok, I've rechecked fuse 33 (60 amps). My multimeter sensors were too thick to touch the terminals so I had use wire. When the car ignition was on, I was reading 10 volts.

As mentioned, I won't need to hunt for the X4/10 box fuses.

I then pulled the light out to find the suction fan module.

 

I then unplugged the suction fan module, turned the ignition on and checked the power going into the module.

12 volts

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Can I safely assume that because all fuses work, the fan motor works, and there is power to the suction fan module that the suction fan module is broken?

Should I do anymore check before buying another unit?

 

This is the unit in the unit inside it's holding. It looks like it was held in place through bent metal bars.

Do I need to know anything specific to get this out?


If anyone else is following this. To get the headlight out, you need to undo the two nuts that hold the front of the bumper bar on. Then you can twist the bumper bar out the way a little to get the light out.





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Something I should add. I found it funny that the voltage was comming from the middle two connection on the suction fan modul plug when the fat red one looks like it goes to the outter edge connector. There was no voltage on this outer connection..

 

I've just read the following from somewhere else on the web.

The Suction fan behind the raditor has a control module on it that runs the fan at a variable speed. Power to the control module on the fan is supplied by relay P on the front SAM. The control module looks at the pressure in the AC system, and the temperature of the coolant to determine the speed of the fan. Many people have replaced the fan control unit, the relay, and the front sam, which were perfectly good, but the pressure sensor for the AC system was faulty.

Should I start looking at the pressure sensor for the AC System?

As mentioned earlier. The EC light on the climate control as been on for the last couple of days and wont go off. I beginning to thing that the guy who replaced the ac pipe on the car screwed something else on the car that is preventing the cooling fan from operating correctly...



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your EC light is cause by refrigirant temperature sensor and evaporator temperature sensor, no doubt about that... but that is another story.

it doesn't affect the suction fan operation, it just disable the compressor and you need to delete the light using star diagnosis to re-enable the a/c.

looking at the wiring diagram again... the pin#3 and pin #6 should have power with ignition "on".

the pin#3 of control module goes directly to fuse #3 of X4/10. ignition on or not...it's terminal 15, always hot all the time.

think about it.

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this is good. Pin 3 and 6 do have power with the ignition on. Pin 4 and 1 go to the motor. So all is good.

 

I'm not sure what terminal 15 is?

As pin 3 is live with the ignition, I can safely assume that power is reaching the suction control module. Therefore the fault must be with the power being released from the control module to the fan via pin 1 and pin 4..

Do you think I'm right?

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