At first my battery went out. I recharged it and it runs ok but weak (needs jump start from time to time) until now.Yesterday I tried to jump start, it started but quickly died. Pumping the gas pedal was not helping. I kept the jump cable on while the other car is running. Still can not get it run.

What could be the problem? Fuel pump? (heard there are issues with fuel pumps) Sensor(s)? How can I check it? I'm pretty far from the dealer to tow it in so I'd like to check if it could be something I can fix myself before I send it into the dealers.

Thanks a lot.

p.s. it's asking for radio code also but I assume this should not affect the car to start. Is this correct?

 

I recommend to check rmp reading when you crank. If no rpm reading, replace a new crank sensor. You probablyneed a new ECU and a new MAF sensorfor this vehicle . There is a TSB about a replacing ECU when it stall. The fuel pump doesn't behave this way.

 

If you had a bad crank sensor the engine would just crank. No crank rpm= no fuel and no spark.The car will not even attempt to start just crank. There is a black ring around the ingition switch, this is the sensor ring.I've seen this most of the time in your condition, esp. if this is a high mi vehicle. One easy way to check this is look at the security light on the dash next to the radio. You'll see a little red led flash and go out. this is to let you knowthat the key is recognized. I would start here before doing all the other stuff. Another thing to try is the other key (you have another right?). We've had a few conditions where this is not the case but few and far between.
Mark

 

I WOULD RECOMMEND TRYING ANOTHER KEY. I HAVE SEEN A FEW OF THEM ACT THIS WAY.

 

Like masterbenztech said start with the keys than look at the imoblizer. The black ring I was talking about.

 

when crankin over r gettin a start error sign????

 

The problem is that you charged your dead battery with the key in the ignition. This action automaticallyterminates theconnection between your key and the computer. It is linked tothe anti-theft device I guess. It happened to me. Ifyou have a spare key, it should work. Mine did, until I did it again! Wanted to yell obscenities. So, I had to buy a new key. It starts theSUV, but have to have it programmed to unlock the doors. I hope this helps. DONOT LEAVE YOUR KEY IN THE IGNITION IF CHARGING OR CHANGING YOUR BATTERY!!!!

 

Hey Guys, Once Happy Mercedes Owner/ Who's Now Turned OFF... You see, My key is not working... and when I tried to order replacement keys, (Where can you get used or blank keys toML 320), the dealership says there are no more keys and my ML needs to be re-keyed and will cost over $5,000 another shop told me there's a place in New Jersey that charges $2500, but... I have to come up with a couple more blank or discarded keys? ANY SUGGESTIONS? What gets me, is that, NO ONE at the dealership told me about this 8 key reprogramming thing before I purchased it and apparently the two keys I have were the last two... I feel totally screwed... any advice ???

 

I have a 1998 ML320

Has worked great everyday until now.
Upon leaving work battery was dead, just click click when I tried to start.
I replaced the battery, and now it will almost start and then die, every time.

I can hear it fire at first, and then it instantly dies, like no fire.

If I spray starter fluid while cranking, it does not run any longer.
Making me think it is not fuel but instead electrical.
The metal fuel line bleeder seems to have pressure, if I press it as it's cranking, it sparays fuel out, like it's definetely under pressure.

I don't have a manual, and I don't know how to check my codes.

All suggestions are greatly appreciated.

How do I get a manual?
How do I check my codes?
What could be causing this start and then instantly stall symptom?
And could the dead battery have something to do with this.
Battery never had troubler before this.

Thanks in advance for suggestions/advice.

CARLOS DOUGLAS
NOGALES AUTO SALES INC.