I have a 2000 ML 320 that wont start! It gets fuel flowing to the engine, has new battery, and relays and fuses are good, it just wont fire up! Ive been told it could be the crank shaft location sensor or something ike that, Has anyone had a problem like this

 

I have the same problem with my 1998 ml 320 and have changed the crank position sensor but still will not start.

 

Same problem here. So, did you guys get any reply that might have answered your questions. Or did they tell you to go to a Mercedes Dealership service department?

 

See if you can pull any fault codes. Try scanning right after a crank cycle before it is keyed off. This will help a lot, many things it can be...

Alex

 

I have a 1999 ML320 that has developed the same problem. The problem is intermittent and appears most often when the engine is cold. It will run fine for a couple days, and then the problem recurrs. it will start fine, and drive well for the first mile or so. Then at the first stop sign or signal, it just stops. no missing or stuttering. the engine just shuts down. after waiting 10-15 minutes, it will start again and run fine. New battery, plugs. Codes all check fine.

 

I just bought a '99 ml320 and there wasn't an owners manual with it. Can anyone help me track one down?

 

Alex: a good idea. So far all the fault codes are clear, but they have not been pulled after one of those unsuccessful crank cycles. Only problem is that this usually happens in traffic, and the car would have to be hauled in right after that. the shop has had the car for a week. Various mechanics have driven it around the city and the problem has not occurred. Then I picked it up, drove four blocks, and it died.

 

Same problem with my 99 ml320. Anyone found a solution yet? Could it be the starter?

 

No codes makes it even harder. As far as dying in traffic or after several minutes of driving, this is a classic crank sensor condition, especially the one on here that will restart after sitting for a while. These don't set codes unless you scan it right after the kill, before the key is shut off. (Dumb programming in my opinion) My usual test for this is to leave the vehicle running in a place where it won't be in the way and wait for it to die out, then scan it.

I know a couple of you have said you changed the crank sensors and didn't solve the problem. As far as that goes, I don't have any solid advice for testing that can be done at home or with generic scanners, sorry.

 

Could it be the DAS system? I've read in the forum where there is a transponder where the key goes into the ignition and that if the battery goes dead or if you try to jump start with key in ignition the system will not allow the car to start and the key will have to be reprogrammed at the dealer. Mine was running when put in storage but when I tried to start at later date it would not start. I did try to jump with key in ignition so could my problem be with the DAS system?