Hi, I have a 2000 E320 that needs to be serviced, I am about 3500 miles over. I was wondering what kind of oil and oil filter do I have to use. I know if I go to the dealer, I would have to mortgage my house just so they can look at it. So I was thinking about taking it to a regular oil shop or do it myself. Thanks.

 

Use the Mann oil filter, part number: 112 180 00 09, I believe and around 8 quarts of chevron's 20W-50 should do the job.

 

Be Careful.
MB use extended oil change intervals on their vehicles (the MB dash mounted ASSYST system is based on this) and are based on the use of synthetic oil.
Ordinary high grade mineral oil is OK but not at the extended service intervals specified by MB.
This had lead to considerable problems in the USA where extended periods have been used with standard oil and engine damage has resulted. The use of independent oil change garages sited at every mall is not the norm in Europe. Most owners take there vehicle to an MB dealer and get charged excessive amounts. Oil change on a V6 with Mobil 1 (synthetic) is something like £100 GBP.
My suggestion is to follow exactly what MB specify in your handbook. If you are a fastidious owner who loves his car and wants to change the oil more frequently it may give some small benefit if your wallet can stand it.
Stuart

 

i agree w/stuart. Get Mobile 1 in 0w-40w and the OEM filter. changing oil is quite easy for your model (I have 99 E320) as well.....use the curb method if you have no floor jack. should be less than $60-75 overall if you change...more if someone else does it.

 

Thanks guys. So basically I should buy Mobile1 in 0w-40w oil and and OEM filter. What kind of filter is that. also what is the curb method? And how do I clear it on the dash screen where it says "Service is overdue" after I change the oil. And one more question (sorry) How many miles do I change the oil on my car? thank you.

 

Hi Gary,
A few more points.
The Mercedes oil filter is apparently a fabric vs paper type element. Once again due to the extended change intervals I would go for original equipment vs aftermarket. It may be a little more expensive but that is more than offset by the extended oil change points.

Not sure what kerb side procedure is but it is possible that this refers to siphoning rather than draining the oil. All the "While you wait" places tend to use siphoning since its much quicker but it doesn't get as much sediment out of the oil pan. It certainly avoids having to remove the protective covering from under the sump (subject to model) which can be tricky if you don't have a ramp. I prefer to get the car thoroughly warm and actually drain from the sump plug on flat ground. This also allows me to see if there are any leaks.

With respect to change intervals I'm not going to get involved in a discussion on this. People seem to have very set ideas on this. Mercedes have done a lot of work to determine oil change intervals and I therefore recommend sticking to the ASSYST on board reminder. ASSYST takes account (rather crudely) of driving style, so if use the car infrequently the change point is calculate on time rather than distance.

In America, customers appear to want to change their oil with much greater regularity. Changing oil more frequently isn't a problem so long as you have the wallet for it but the benefits are small and only show up at very high mileages. Grade of oil is far more important. Thick oil in cold climates is bad news. Thin oil in hot countries is bad news. This is why oil manufacturers have developed multigrade oils. e.g. 0 - 40 In VERY simple terms they have developed oils which behave as thin when cold and thick when hot.

The service reset procedure is in your handbook. Basically you press a dash button in a certain sequence / time.

Remember however that Service is more than just an oil change and on a car like yours the vehicle computers should be read since they may be indicating potential problems.

I'll bet there will be responses regarding oil change points!!
Stuart

 

Curb/kurb method. On my 99 E320, I drive the left side of the
vehicle on the curb, leaving the drain plug side lower....to ease
draining. If the curb is high enough, it may also allow you to
crawl underneath to access the drain plug. I've since acquired
a floor jack so I can do the oil change in my garage where it is
a little warmer. I drain....versus suction. Yes, when I typed
OEM filter, I meant MB. The resetting of the service message
was relatively painless, though reminded me a bit of having to
pat one's head with one hand, while rubbing tummy with the
other. In other words, it took a few attempts.

 

In America, M-B dealers siphon. The "while-you-wait" places drain from the sump.

This is a tool and should be used as one. M-B lost a hugh class-action lawsuit because customers relied on the recommendations of M-B and the on-board reminders. Your head is a better tool, unless you were dropped on your head as an infant.

It is possible to change your oil too frequently. However, no harm comes of this except for your wallet, as you pointed out. Waiting too long between changes, though, can be devastating over time. Better safe than sorry. Again, use your head along with your other tools.

 

The oil will drain more thoroughly from the sump if the car is level. Even if you jack it up, then let it down while it drains.

 

Yes cars are designed to have the oil drain while they are level.