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Check Engine Light / HOT air only

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  #1  
Old 06-08-2006, 01:28 PM
GrogMan's Avatar
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Default Check Engine Light / HOT air only

So, what causes are there for the "check engine light" to come on. I have a 1994 E320. The light mysteriousely illuminated about 50 miles past the 90K mark. Hmmm... Is this a regular service interval? If not, what else causes this? I've recently been experiencing more frequent electrical weirdness with this car. The last thing to happen was I lost functioning of the climate control system, and only HOT air leaks out of the vents now - a blown fuse somewhere? Anybody got any suggestions? I'd just like to know before I go down to MB and give them my tax return : (
 
  #2  
Old 06-08-2006, 04:33 PM
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Default RE: Check Engine Light / HOT air only

see what's wrong with the check engine light by checking here first underneath the hood next to the battery, with the key in the on position-engine off-you hold down that button for 3-4 seconds..count the flashes (codes). After it's done flashing, repeat the process to see if any other code comes up. Turn off the check engine light by holding the button down for 6-8 secs. You should take that code and find it here...

Emissions - Using Built-in Diagnostic Module
1 No Fault Found
2 Heated oxygen sensor faulty
3 Lambda control faulty
4 Air injection system faulty hot film mass air flow sensor with hot wire
5 Exhaust gas recirculation faulty
6 Idle speed control faulty
7 Ignition system faulty
8 Engine coolant temperature sensor open circuit
9 Intake air temperature sensor, open circuit
10 Voltage at mass air sensor too high/low
11 Tn-signal (rpm signal ) at engine control module faulty
12 Heated oxygen sensor heater circuit open or circuit short
15 Injector, cylinder 2
16 Closed throttle position information faulty
17 Data exchange malfunction between individual control module
18 Adjustable camshaft timing solenoid circuit open or circuit short
19 Injectors circuit open or circuit short emission control module adaptation in engine control module at limit
20 Vehicle speed signal not present
21 Purge switchover valve circuit open or circuit short
22 Crankshaft position sensor signal faulty
23 Intake manifold pressure (in base module pressure sensor-) with engine running too high/low.
24 Starter ring gear segments and /or crankshaft position sensor faulty
25 Knock sensors or engine control module faulty
26 Upshift delay faulty
27 Not used
28 Engine coolant temperature sensor (engine coolant temperature change monitor )
44 Not used
45 Fuel safety shut-off electronic accelerator or cruise control active
46 Resonance intake manifold switchover valve
47 Not used
48 Not used
49 Voltage supply at engine control module 8v
50 Engine control module
_________

PIN 8 ECU
1 No fault found
2 Engine Coolant temperature sensor
3 Intake air temperature sensor
4 Hot film mass air flow sensor
5 CTP switch
6 Not used
7 Not used
8 Idle speed control (ISC) system at upper or lower control stop or CC or EA indicates "limp home" mode.
9 O2S 1 (before TWC) - voltage too high, circuit open or voltage implausible
10 O2S 2 (after TWC)voltage too high, circuit open or voltage implausible
11 O2S 1 heater (before TWC) - Current too high/low or short circuit.
12 O2S 2 heater (after TWC) - Current too high/low or short circuit.
13 O2S (Lambda) control system operating at rich or lean limit
14 Injector, cylinder 1
15 Injector, cylinder 2
16 Injector, cylinder 3
17 Injector, cylinder 4
18 Injector, cylinder 5
19 Injector, cylinder 6
20 Self-adaptation at idle speed or upper/lower partial load at rich or lean limit
21 Ignition output 3 or ignition coil for cylinder 1 and 6
22 Ignition output 1 or ignition coil for cylinder 2 and 5 (Engine 111, cylinder 1 and 4)
23 Ignition output 2 or ignition coil for cylinder 3 and 4 (Engine 111, cylinder 2 and 3)
24 CKP sensor or magnet for position sensor not recognized
25 CMP sensor not recognized or implausible
26 Not used
27 TN-signal (rpm signal ) - open or short to ground
28 VSS - open circuit
29 Not used
30 Fuel pump relay module - open or short circuit
31 Not used
32 Knock sensors 1 and /or 2
33 Maximum retard setting on at least one cylinder has been reached or the ignition angle deviation between the individual cylinders is greater than 6 degrees crankshaft angle
34 Knock control-output switch in engine control module faulty Momentary fault in self-adaptation closed throttle speed/partial load
35 Model 124,129 and 140 AIR pump switchover valve and/or electromagnetic AIR pump clutch. Model 202 AIR pump switchover valve and/or AIR relay module
36 Purge control valve - open/short to ground or B+
37 Upshift delay switchover valve
38 Adjustable camshaft timing solenoid - open/short to ground or B+
39 Exhaust gas recirculation switchover valve - open/short to ground or B+
40 Transmission overload protection switch - open/short to ground or B+ or open or closed or implausible
41 CAN communication from engine control module faulty
42 CAN communication from ASR, EA/CC/ISC module or diagnostic module (OBD II) faulty
43 Starter signal (circuit 50) not present
44 Not used
45 Fuel safety shut-off of electronic accelerator or cruise control active
46 Resonance intake manifold switchover valve - open/short to ground or B+
48 O2S 2 (after TWC) heating circuit relay module - open/short to ground or B+
49 Voltage supply at engine control module implausible/low volts
50 Engine control module faulty or not coded.
____________

PIN 14 CC/ETA
1 No fault found
2 EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1) or Safety contact switch (M16/1s1) or Stop lamp switch or Cruise control switch or Actual value potentiometer or Starter lock-out/back-up lamp switch or engine speed signal or vehicle speed signal or closed throttle position switch or safety relay in EA/CC/ISC control module
3 Right EA/CC/ISC actuator (left cylinder bank) (M16/1)
4 Cruise control switch (S40)
5 Stop lamp switch (S9/1)
6 Starter lock-out/backup lamp switch
7 CAN data bus signal from EA/CC/ISC, ABS/ASR, HFM-SFI or LH-SFI (right or left) control module faulty.
8 Left front axle vehicle speed sensor from ABS/ASR control module
9 Left rear axle vehicle speed sensor from ABS/ASR control module or in 124 chassis Hall-effect speed sensor.
10 Engine speed signal (TN) from base module (LH-SFI) or engine control module (HFMSFI)
11 Closed throttle recognition signal to engine control module (HFM-SFI or Left LH-SFI) Fuel safety shut-off to engine control module (HFM-SFI or left or right LH-SFI)
12 EA/CC/ISC control module voltage supply
13 Left EA/CC/ISC actuator (right cylinder bank) or actual value potentiometer (M16/4r1 or M16/4r2) or actuator motor (M16/4m1)or magnetic clutch (M16/4k1).
14 Closed throttle position contact switch
15 CAN data exchange with ABS/ASR control module illogical

Here's whats you're looking for under the hood.
...
 
  #3  
Old 06-08-2006, 05:07 PM
vytamenc's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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Posts: 391
Default RE: Check Engine Light / HOT air only

see that little picture that he posted with the little button on it well put the key in the number 2 position and hold this button down for 3 seconds then count the blinkd that the little led blinks count very percise. write the number down then push the button again for 3 seconds count again write the number down i want you to repeat the procedure till you get the same amount of blinks twice. this is your code on why your engine light is on thery maybe alot of them please count all of them. and report back
 
  #4  
Old 06-09-2006, 01:07 AM
GrogMan's Avatar
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Default RE: Check Engine Light / HOT air only

Thanks for your helpful and detailed replies!

I got a 5, then a 21 from the procedure you mentioned in the previous post.
 
  #5  
Old 06-09-2006, 09:09 PM
vytamenc's Avatar
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Posts: 391
Default RE: Check Engine Light / HOT air only

ok code 5 is for the egr valve no it dosent mean you have a bad egr valve. it means that the d.m. isnt seeing what it need to see when the egr is activated. first check that the vacuum hose is connected to the egr have seen where the hose actually splits. if it is not split with the car off i want you to test the egr valve and with a vacuum guage make sure that it is holding vacuum also make sure that the egr is actually moving. if it tests good i want you to get the motor nice and hot over 80 C then i want you to activated the egr valve by applying vacuum to it while the car is running. if the egr is working when you apply vacuum to it the car should run very poor like it wants to dye. if it does not run poor that means you have a pluged egr hose. for thei you need to r+r the intake manifold and remove the egr tube and clean the carbon out of it. any questions let me know
 
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