Well, I fixed the throttle linkage, and the rpm problem. However, the lower control pressure of the fuel distributor seems to be out of calibration.

Originally, the lower control screws were turned into the unit 9 turns. Now, when I raise the pressure that high, the car will barely start or idle. When I remove the power to the aux. air valve, the car drops in rpms and dies.

When I decrease the pressure of the lower control screws by turning them in only about 6 or 7 turns, the car starts perfectly, idles slightly too high (1100 rpms) and seems to rich. However, the car seems to have lots of power. When I remove the power to the aux. air valve, the car drops to the normal 750 rpms.

My question is whether or not I should continue to try to fine tune the control screws, or if my problem sounds like it is comming from the throttle body mixture screw adjustment or air throttle position. I did actually mess around witht the throttle body mixture screw, but I could not tell any difference, and the spring tension on the plate did not seem to increase or decrease.

(Another bit of info- when I have the lower control screws to the orginal 9 turns they started at, the car is hard to start and when running, backfires when I step on the accelerator. Could I possibly onyl need to adjust the throttle body mixture screw? And do you turn the screw by pushing down and turning, or just turning it period. (Which direction to lean or richen)

 

My last post was a little long, so I just wanted to sum it up by saying that when I run the mixture rich, it starts fine but uses too much gas. When I run the mixture closer to where it should be, the car does not start without stepping on the gas pedal and backfires when trying to accelerate. All other components have checked out to be fine except the fuel distributor. What are your suggestions as to the nature of the adjustments I should make?

Thank You

 

you must adjust it by only half each time. it is very sensitive. fine tuning it must be done by 1/8 turn or smaller if possible.

the best way is to observe the difference between system and control pressure.

 

From my understanding, the system pressure is controlled by the location of the plunger. I currently have the plunger adjusted so that in it's closed state, it is perfectly resting on the pivot of the sensor plate. *Is this wrong and should I screw in the plunger so that it is partially open during it's resting position? *Would this affect acceleration or starting?

 

the system pressure is controlled by the fuel pressure regulator. it is constant.

the EHA controls the regulating or control pressure by getting some pressure from the system pressure. now i guess you feel your own pressure

the plunger controls the flow of the fuel going to the fuel injectors.
it doesn't change the pressure.
you can feel this whenever you slightly push down the sensor (turn the key on and off several time to build up pressure on the system).

give a little free play on the sensor plate so as not to flood your cylinder with fuel once the engine is off. 4mm would be fine.

please don't confuse the fuction of each component.

just give a difference of 1 bar between sytem and control pressure, and it's done. then you can check other components.

if the engine got too much power and smoke, then it's rich.

 

I am making definate progress now that I have leaned out the control pressure. In order for the car to start properly with this lower pressure, I am increasing the position of the plunger to give a higher idle. *My question is, how do I know what position the actual throttle plate (air intake) should be open at idel? *If I have it adjusted too constricted (too closed) and keep making up for it by screwing in the plunger, will this really matter? *Should I keep adjusting the plunger for correct idle and starting, or should I try opening up the throttle air plate more?

 

I am making definate progress now that I have leaned out the control pressure. In order for the car to start properly with this lower pressure, I am increasing the position of the plunger to give a higher idle. *My question is, how do I know what position the actual throttle plate (air intake) should be open at idel? *If I have it adjusted too constricted (too closed) and keep making up for it by screwing in the plunger, will this really matter? *Should I keep adjusting the plunger for correct idle and starting, or should I try opening up the throttle air plate more?

 

there is an adjustment screw beside the fuel distributor. originnally there is metal cap on it, just pry it out.

adjust from there. this sets the base for the sensor plate position.

the sensor plate is already in basic position if you haven't moved that adjusting screw.

 

I have 3 more questions:

1) can I make the adjustments while the engine is running, or does it have to be off?

2) will adjusting the sensor plate affect idle and starting?

3) should I set the plunger to the lowest level and adjust the sensor plate in order to obtain correct idle and starting?

 

YES. the engine should be running while doing the adjustment. adjust it until the engine stops shaking and you can hear the business hum that says... this is it.

it will affect if you will adjust it too much, which will flood the cylinders. while turning on the ign on and off several times, you will feel the plate resting on that plunger. you must give a little bit of free play. too lean will be hard starting, which means you have to assist the engine by pushing down that plate in order to get the injectors working.

which plunger, the control piston?
there must be still a visible old mark if you haven't count the turns before. i never had any problem adjusting it. maybe about 4 turns before its tight is fine.
yes. do the plunger first. the sensor plate is your fine tuning.