Hi guys, something funny going on with my car. I know this is kind of long, but im trying to describe it as best as I can....nothing more frustrating than some one asking you about a problem, with only half the description.
First of all, last thursday, i put the key in the ignition, turned it, n got no response what-so-ever. I removed the key, re-inserted it, turned it again, and it started just fine.
However, once it started, the display in the gauge cluster showed;

"ESP
Visit workshop!"

Anyhow, I drove on with this on the display, but then parked up somewhere for a few minutes. When i started the car again, I had no issues, and the malfunction had gone from the display. So I thought it was just a small glitch, n forgot about it (please note here, there are no obvious running issues or anything, when this is happening).
Now about 5 days went by fine.
Then on Tuesday, I turned the key in the ignition.....same thing (no response). So again, I removed the key, re-inserted and turned it and the car once again started fine. Exept this time it gave me 2malfunctions. The first was the same as before, for the ESP and the second said;

"Display defective
Visit workshop!"
(this was written within an outlined picture of the check engine symbol)

Also with this, the engine check light flashed for a split second, every 15-20 seconds or so. Plus the coolant temp gauge at this point was at 80 degrees, but every 10 seconds or so, it would dip from 80 to 40 for a split second, then straight back to 80 again.
So I turned off the ignition, restarted, and still same thing. It did not go away this time.

First thing's first, I dont know 2much about ESP's and electrics, so I just checked everything I knew about anyway. The only odd thing I noticed was that the brake fluid was full to the brim inside the reservoir (does this have anything to do with the ESP?) so I reduced it to the Max mark.
I then started the car, and all was fine and it has been fine since (altough it's only been one day so far).

Has anyone experienced this before? Do you think the brake fluid being too high would have done it? (In which case its been sorted). Anything else I should check?

Thanks alot for any help/advice.
Baz.

 

It's back again. This time I noticed the engine running a little rough....BUT only when slowing down/braking with foot off the accelerator. And when im stationary, it idles funny (fluctuating between about 600-1000 rpm) AND all the sympoms Im getting only happen whenever the 2malfunctions are showing on the display. The times that I start the car and dont get the malfunctions, the ESP works fine, and the engine runs perfect.
Now I turned the car off and on again a couple times, and it was the same both times (malfunctions came up, as well as the symptoms that come with them). But then i stopped to fill up petrol, and when i turned the car on this time, it was fine. No ESP malfunction, no display error or check engine light, no funny idling, smooth running engine.....im baffled....Any1?

Please also note when the malfunctions are NOT showing, I can tell the ESP is working. But when the malfunctions are showing, I can easily spin the back wheels on cornering.

Any help appreciated guys. Im new to Mercs, and as with every other forum im a member of, I always give back as much as i can, as I learn more.

Thanks again,
Baz.

 

Read the codes, if any, & post it in the forum.

 

first thing i think of is voltage issue. maybe too low voltage? sounds like you need to visit a good MB dealer. could be an electrical problem with anything. i just checked MB startekinfo for anything related to your complaint and found nothing.

you probably have 2 differnt issues. It still sounds like voltage issues. if you have another key for your car..try a differnt key. Ive seen keys make cars do some weird stuff. Id try a new battery and get the alternator checked.

 

Thanks guys. I only have the one key for it, but soon as i get the codes checked, i'll post back here.
used a multimeter on the battery. its 12.5volts when the car's off and 14.08volts when running.
doent this show the battery and alternator are good?
If the key was funny, you think changing the cell in that may help, or rule any thing out?

 

You should do a load test on the battery. Voltage does not indicate condition of battery. How old is it? If you are around 5-6 years old, could very possibly be battery.

The cell in the key is cheap. may as well replace it.

And buy a spare key. It would really suck to have your only fail, and then have to wait for a replacement to be shipped.

 

Thanks for that, but im lost. How do yu do a load test, if you dont mind me asking? Not sure how old the battery is though. So fingers crossed, as this seems not too expensive and simple to fix. But i gave my friend's multimeter back today.lol. Will just get my own later and see how a load test is done, then check the battery again.
Also, good point about the remote cell...dont cost much...goes without saying, i guess.
Also, isn't a spare key around £200 from MB? In which case I'll have to wait for my other car to sell as well and make sure my current issues dont cost too much before i spend that much on another key (although im not doubting the importance of it, for a second- but my situation is what it is at the moment).
Having said that, business is going kind of slow at the moment....hence why Im selling my other beloved motors
So please bare with me when i acknowledge how important certain measures are, but dont do them (eg. getting a new spare key made for the time being- which i will get round to, soon as work picks up again).

Anyhow, thanks once again,
Baz.

 

A load test is a test done with a special piece of equipment that puts a load on the battery, say, 200 amps, and checks for voltrage drop. Your instrument can't do this test.

Over here in the USA, most of the automotive parts shops have these tools and will test for free.

As for the key, the key costs around 200USD.

 

Ok, kool. I'll go get a load test done first then.
N order a key from the us, since it'd work out cheaper.lol.
Aparently its £220 over here, which i think is somewhere between $350 and $400.

 

Just saw this video of how to do a load test;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viltQBg2jOQ

I also looked up the proper procedure, which only simulates the cranking, so far as im aware, the method in this vid should be fine.