It slides down in the metal grove on top of the pads and the long tube slides into the hole in the pads.

 

You will see how the old one is on there. It is on front right side and it slides in groove and into the little tiny hole. Just make sure you Get MB sensor. It is Black in color.

I got one from parts store and it is slightly different. That's how I know to get the right one from MB! LOL

 

I got mine from Amazon and the sensor works really nice. I find that the on from MB puts the sensor about half way into the pads. What happens is that the light will come on way before you really need to replace them. After mine came on the first time with the factory pads, after inspection I put the wheels back on and drove another 6 months before I changed the pads, I drive about 14k a year.

Alan.

 

Car: 2005 C230 Kompressor with sport package

Can someone identify these two caliper nuts? (see red arrows) If I want to remove the calipers in order to replace the rotors, do I to remove those two? If so, what size they are and do I need a special tool to remove them?

Thanks
btw, the pics on the 2nd page do not work for me.

 

No, do not take those bolts out. Those actually take the calipers apart. You don't want to do that. If you look on the backside of the calipers there should be 2 bigger bolts that hold the whole caliper assembly. Take those 2 bolts out and it will remove the whole assembly then you can get the pads off. The pads should have those little pins on the that you have to take off. That's all you have to do. It is actually pretty easy. BUT if you take the two bolts off that you have arrows too, it will actually separate the caliper in half and all of your brake fluids will run out. DON'T DO THAT!

 

Thanks! That is what I thought. Now I need to decide if I should paint the calipers since they look very discolored. I tried scrubbing it off but it does not work.

 

Yea mine do the same. I have all black and I was thinking of doing red metallic. I thought that would look hot. I just got the title in the mail for her so now that there is no car payment I may be able to update her a little more now.

 

My 2001 C240 sat for 6 years and has rust on the brakes. There is a noticeable "judder" or pulsing in the brake pedal and noisy vibration when I brake.

The front brakes look ok, pads thick, rotors rusty. I took them apart, lubricated pins and pads and put them back together.

One rear rotor had a rusted depression the size of the pad. It must have developed slowly sitting for a long time.

The rear fixed caliper pin that holds the brake pads won't budge after banging on it with a hammer. The small screw that holds the disc on the rotor broke my T30 Torx bit trying to apply leverage.

I know the pads and disc should be easy as said elsewhere in this post but rust seems to have taken over.

1. Is it likely the rusted depression in the rotor is the cause of my judder?

2. How to free the pad pin from the caliper? Will propane heat be okay or would heat ruin the caliper?

3. How to free the hold down screw on the rotor? Would heat fry the hub bearing?

4. If the rotor won't come off, can I apply heat? Will that hurt the bearing?

5. Can I replace just the bad rotor or should I do both sides?

Any other advice?

Thank you,

John

 

The job is done now and I have the following to report.

1. After replacing all 4 rotors, the judder went away. It must be that the rust on all the rotors interfered with good contact between pad and rotor and caused the judder.

2. The pads are "like new" so I did not remove them. I expanded the pads and thus the 2 pistons with a handy wedge, an axe, tapped between the pads. If you do this, don't cut anything with the axe blade.

3. On the rear, the hold down screws came loose with PB Blaster, time to soak, tapping and a good quality T30 Torx bit. On the front. I had to drill them out until they broke free. The Torx hole makes a nice drill center point.

4. The rotors banged off with my heavy hammer.

5. All 4 rotors had to be replacd in my situation of years of rotor rust causing the judder.

I hope this helps someone else.

John -

 

The job is done now and I have the following to report.

1. After replacing all 4 rotors, the judder went away. It must be that the rust on all the rotors interfered with good contact between pad and rotor and caused the judder.

2. The pads are "like new" so I did not remove them. I expanded the pads and thus the 2 pistons with a handy wedge, an axe, tapped between the pads. If you do this, don't cut anything with the axe blade.

3. On the rear, the hold down screws came loose with PB Blaster, time to soak, tapping and a good quality T30 Torx bit. On the front. I had to drill them out until they broke free. The Torx hole makes a nice drill center point.

4. The rotors banged off with my heavy hammer.

5. All 4 rotors had to be replaced in my situation of years of rotor rust causing the judder.

I hope this helps someone else.

John -