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Mercedes C230/2005

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  #1  
Old 03-24-2010, 04:11 AM
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Smile Mercedes C230/2005

There is no dipstick on this model, so I don't think I can suction the oil out.Right?
I will need to use a floor jack to get to the oil pan. Where do I place the jack so I don't dammage the oil pan. Is there a lift platform. Last, what is the torque on the drain plug?
Thank you for saving me $250.00.
 
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Old 03-24-2010, 06:28 AM
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you can still suction it out. there is a dipstick tube for the dealer just not a dipstick. its either at the back of the engine or under the engine cover
 
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Old 03-25-2010, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by chassis221
you can still suction it out. there is a dipstick tube for the dealer just not a dipstick. its either at the back of the engine or under the engine cover
Thanks so much, Mr MB master(chassis 221). But if I suction the oil out, can that damage the oil level sensor?
Asclepios
 

Last edited by Asclepios; 03-25-2010 at 03:13 PM.
  #4  
Old 03-25-2010, 03:28 PM
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never heard of such a thing just dont jam in down really hard and you should be fine
 
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Old 03-28-2010, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by chassis221
never heard of such a thing just dont jam in down really hard and you should be fine
I don't want to abuse of your advice, but one last thing: Could you suggest a good oil extractor pump.
I won't ask you anything more on oil change, I promise.
Asclepios
 
  #6  
Old 03-29-2010, 06:51 PM
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OK, I'm confused here. Why would you need a floor jack and want to know where to lift the car, the oil plug torque, etc. when you are going to suction the oil out of the pan? The reason people and mostly all dealerships use the suction method is to save time, labor, and liability (in removing the plug) by not having to jack the car on a lift, remove the belly pans, and mess around with the drain plug, etc. It's ALL done from under the hood. The filter is right there in the black "canister" with the integral hex-head nut on top of it, and you won't have to have the car in the air at all. I have the same model and year car with 172K on it and have changed the oil numerous times (obviously) since new. There are a few things you should know before you do this job, so......if you don't know what you're doing please ask me. I'll be glad to tell you what you will need and what to be ready for. OK?
Hope this helps you.
 
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Old 03-30-2010, 03:51 AM
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Thank you Mrcoyote. You convinced me. I won't lift the car up.I have done my own oil changes for years and got my hands dirty ( and more), so the dipstick tube approach excites me. But I don't know how to start from the word go.What do I need( can you recommend the oil extractor that you use).And I also want to know what can go wrong . And I don't kid myself, it might and will. be the teacher and I'll be a good student.
Thanks, sir.
 
  #8  
Old 03-30-2010, 09:13 AM
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OK. Perhaps I should have explained my personal view on changing the oil by not removing the drain plug. I'm an old-school hot rodder and engine builder. I have never used a tool to suck out oil from any drain pan and probably never will. I run my cars up on a pair of home-made ramps I made, crawl under the car, and take the drain plug out. I do this on any car I own. Others might argue that it's the same doing it that way as it is sucking it out of a tube from under the hood. I'm not pressed for time nor do I believe you get the same job that way, so I take my time and do it the slower way. Also, I get to look under the engine and check things when I do this. It's just me.
So, if you want to do it the "easy" way and suck it out of a tube, that's fine, but I don't.
You can find the pump to do this by doing a search. Many websites have them. If you want to do it the way I do, you will have to lift the front end of the car up so that you can crawl under it and take off the two belly pans and this might be a problem for you. It's always hard for me to know how equipped people are for mechanical work at home. Without the car's front end in the air, forget it. You could not get to the small fasteners that hold the two belly pans to remove them, exposing the plug. Get it? So you choose.
OK? In a nutshell, if you do it the way I do, you are talking about lifting the car up, taking the two belly pans off, getting a pan under the engine, pulling the plug, removing the lid from the oil filter canister under the hood, installing the new filter onto the "stem" inside that cap with new O-rings (3 of them), re-installing the filter and cap, replacing the oil plug under the car w/ new washer (or not), filling the engine with new oil (5.8 qts. for your car), putting the belly pans back on, lowering the car, and recycling the old oil. Then you have to reset your service indicator on the dash and figure out how you are going to get that oil off the driveway and your hands and clothes. Ha! Just kidding. You'll need a few tools and a big wrench to get the filter canister top off. I use a big socket. That's a brief outline of what you would need to do, OR.........you can buy a tool to suck it out and eliminate going under the car. See why they do it that way? TIME saver. And time is money for auto shops. Simple.
 
  #9  
Old 04-03-2010, 12:07 AM
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Smile Lifting the car up with floor jack.

Mrcoyote,
I've been doing it your way on my Dascher diesel for 30 odd years( It still runs good but I have a problem finding parts and filters). Same for 12 years with my Ford Contour. So I don't mind spending the time since I am retired and thank God, still able to crawl under the car. But I need to know where to place the jack so I don't damage the belly pans or anything else that I AM NOT SUPPOSED TO. I am amazed by your being able to have built your own ramp. I know I am not able to do that but I thought of having a pit dug in my garage, only the wife gave me an adamant " no way".
So if you tell me where to place the thing , I know I can do the rest. I only need the Nm torque for the oil plug.
Thanks a load.
 
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