fuse blows when ingition turnd on,w123 230
#1
09-01-2006, 01:18 AM
fuse blows when ingition turnd on,w123 230
number 14 fuse, on w123 1976 230 automatic carburetor stromberg 175xx (with water heater choke)
[size=2]every time i switch on the ignition no. 14 fuse blows[/size] ( it comtrols reversing lights, carby heater and idle shut off valve)
when i put a volt meter between the two contacts of no. 14 fuse, meter registers a currant but the othe fused do not.
At one time the starter ignition switch did not allow me to turn the key, so i sprayed oil down the key hole, but did not work, and i was told that is not the right thing to do, I have cleend out the oil by spraying electical cleaner down the key hole and adding graphie powder, the key turns in the ignition switch ok.
Some one told me it could still be the ignition switch (a non electician person)
How and what can I check, why no.14 fuse is blowing,every time ignition is turned on.?
The car is difficult to start, and idles a bit rough, the plugs are a bit sooty, when new plugs are put in it idles ok, but soon fouls up it idle for a few hours.
any help on the fuse,
thanks,
viktor
bohdan3@yahoo.com
im in east adelaide south austalia
[size=2]every time i switch on the ignition no. 14 fuse blows[/size] ( it comtrols reversing lights, carby heater and idle shut off valve)
when i put a volt meter between the two contacts of no. 14 fuse, meter registers a currant but the othe fused do not.
At one time the starter ignition switch did not allow me to turn the key, so i sprayed oil down the key hole, but did not work, and i was told that is not the right thing to do, I have cleend out the oil by spraying electical cleaner down the key hole and adding graphie powder, the key turns in the ignition switch ok.
Some one told me it could still be the ignition switch (a non electician person)
How and what can I check, why no.14 fuse is blowing,every time ignition is turned on.?
The car is difficult to start, and idles a bit rough, the plugs are a bit sooty, when new plugs are put in it idles ok, but soon fouls up it idle for a few hours.
any help on the fuse,
thanks,
viktor
bohdan3@yahoo.com
im in east adelaide south austalia
#2
09-01-2006, 04:36 AM
RE: fuse blows when ingition turnd on,w123 230
Hi,
Oil in the ignition switch is not good. Electrical cleaner OK. Graphie? powder. Graphite is an electrical conductor. this doesn't sound good BUT the switch appears to be working!!
Fuse blows because you have a short. This is confirmed by placing your voltmeter across the fuse terminals.
One side of a fuse is +ve and the other normally goes to the "consumer" which has considerable resistance. Meter reading is therefore very small.
On the circuit that blows the "consumer" circuit is going to ground so you have a +ve on one side and a -ve on the other side of the fuse hence the 12v reading on your meter.
You need to determine which of the consumers is faulty or where the ground is occuring in the wiring.
Car possibly runs rough at idle because the carb heater isn't working since fuse is blown. However this device may only be intended to work when the ambient temperature is low. More likely is the idle cut off? valve.
If new plugs quickly go sooty it appears that the mixture is RICH and this would also explain the rough idle. Need to tackle one problem at a time recognising that there may be linkage betwee the faults.
Start by disconnecting each consumer at the consumer until you resolve the problem. If all consumers are disconnected and you still have the problem then the wiring is to ground somewhere.
As a guess I would start with disconnecting the Idle solenoid since this is llinked to idle quality.
Stuart
Oil in the ignition switch is not good. Electrical cleaner OK. Graphie? powder. Graphite is an electrical conductor. this doesn't sound good BUT the switch appears to be working!!
Fuse blows because you have a short. This is confirmed by placing your voltmeter across the fuse terminals.
One side of a fuse is +ve and the other normally goes to the "consumer" which has considerable resistance. Meter reading is therefore very small.
On the circuit that blows the "consumer" circuit is going to ground so you have a +ve on one side and a -ve on the other side of the fuse hence the 12v reading on your meter.
You need to determine which of the consumers is faulty or where the ground is occuring in the wiring.
Car possibly runs rough at idle because the carb heater isn't working since fuse is blown. However this device may only be intended to work when the ambient temperature is low. More likely is the idle cut off? valve.
If new plugs quickly go sooty it appears that the mixture is RICH and this would also explain the rough idle. Need to tackle one problem at a time recognising that there may be linkage betwee the faults.
Start by disconnecting each consumer at the consumer until you resolve the problem. If all consumers are disconnected and you still have the problem then the wiring is to ground somewhere.
As a guess I would start with disconnecting the Idle solenoid since this is llinked to idle quality.
Stuart
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
