check engine light
#1
check engine light
hey...my chekc engine light is on..
i chekd the problem and it was the oxygen sensor...
i let the problem go on about a week and the light went off by itself
then month later my vent hose broke off and i replaced it...
when the hose broke off i had hydle problems where the car was runnin like as if it was diesel and it made noises of misfiring int eh engine.. any how the hose was replaced yet i feel the engine is not workin properly... because i dont have as much power as i used to as before...
my check engine light was on throughout this time and even after...and now theres a problem with my temperature coolent sensor...
i stored the car since it was gettn complicated...so if anyone could give me tips on where to start i appreciate it...i dun wana take it to teh dealer because they are just rip offs and i wana know wats goin on before i start repairs
its a 2003 c230 kompressor...thaks guys
i chekd the problem and it was the oxygen sensor...
i let the problem go on about a week and the light went off by itself
then month later my vent hose broke off and i replaced it...
when the hose broke off i had hydle problems where the car was runnin like as if it was diesel and it made noises of misfiring int eh engine.. any how the hose was replaced yet i feel the engine is not workin properly... because i dont have as much power as i used to as before...
my check engine light was on throughout this time and even after...and now theres a problem with my temperature coolent sensor...
i stored the car since it was gettn complicated...so if anyone could give me tips on where to start i appreciate it...i dun wana take it to teh dealer because they are just rip offs and i wana know wats goin on before i start repairs
its a 2003 c230 kompressor...thaks guys
#4
RE: check engine light
toopeh,
I'm willing to help you, but to be honest, I was slightly put-off by your blanket statement about dealerships being "rip-offs". I know dealers are expensive, and kings of nations take their cars there for service, but that just makes them "expensive". The people that work there are just like me and you, but some of the info that I am able to provide actually comes from friends at a dealer or at the factory,and they are very good people. They provide this info because they know we are not kings or titans of industry, but rather hobbyists, enthusiasts, or tinkerers, that buy the used cars,and they appreciate our spirit of keeping the older cars on the road. So you shouldn't,...you know....insult them....because they hand down a lot of opinions for free.If you have in fact been "ripped off" in the US, the law provides for "triple damages" in most states. So I think there should be a distinction between actually being a victim of a crime, and simply not wanting to paytop dollar for service. ok?
Now onto your problem. I understand that you have an O2 code and a termp sensor code. This could mean that the parts are faulty OR simply sending signals that are out of range. IF...you have an intake-air leak, from a rotten or damaged rubber hose, it could be allowing too much air into the engine, thereby killing the air-fuel mixture, thereby causing the car to run hot, thereby causing a temp alarm and an o2 alarm. So the first thing to check are the air hoses for cracks; check all around them with a mirror, or take them off and check them. Also make sure no hoses are cavitating or being sucked closed when reving the engine. Make sure all the vacuum lines are connected. Its pointless to test any sensors if hoses are leaking or damaged. That's step one. Blue
I'm willing to help you, but to be honest, I was slightly put-off by your blanket statement about dealerships being "rip-offs". I know dealers are expensive, and kings of nations take their cars there for service, but that just makes them "expensive". The people that work there are just like me and you, but some of the info that I am able to provide actually comes from friends at a dealer or at the factory,and they are very good people. They provide this info because they know we are not kings or titans of industry, but rather hobbyists, enthusiasts, or tinkerers, that buy the used cars,and they appreciate our spirit of keeping the older cars on the road. So you shouldn't,...you know....insult them....because they hand down a lot of opinions for free.If you have in fact been "ripped off" in the US, the law provides for "triple damages" in most states. So I think there should be a distinction between actually being a victim of a crime, and simply not wanting to paytop dollar for service. ok?
Now onto your problem. I understand that you have an O2 code and a termp sensor code. This could mean that the parts are faulty OR simply sending signals that are out of range. IF...you have an intake-air leak, from a rotten or damaged rubber hose, it could be allowing too much air into the engine, thereby killing the air-fuel mixture, thereby causing the car to run hot, thereby causing a temp alarm and an o2 alarm. So the first thing to check are the air hoses for cracks; check all around them with a mirror, or take them off and check them. Also make sure no hoses are cavitating or being sucked closed when reving the engine. Make sure all the vacuum lines are connected. Its pointless to test any sensors if hoses are leaking or damaged. That's step one. Blue
#5
RE: check engine light
thanx for replyn....i didnt mean to disappoint by my statement but i had a bad experience when the dealer charged me 3hrs for labor that was only at max 1hr i know this cause i was actually looking throught from inside through the shop. ne how its all been done and i'm in ancaster, Canada and theres only one dealer in for 2 cities and i'm busy with work and i didnt want to get it n e further. i only know of couple hoses how many is there, and where usually?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Kikoap
Mercedes M Class
3
07-30-2012 02:50 PM
Kikoap
General Tech
0
03-27-2012 10:37 PM
krisgt2@hotmail.com
Mercedes E Class
1
09-28-2007 01:41 AM