Yeah, maybe for yours. Mine are $65 each.

From earlier posts...

I thought you had a concern and a theory about higher temps with copper plugs ruining a motor, but then you switched gears on me. Heat ranges are just as important today. I'm not sure why you think they aren't. You can help combat pre-detonation with colder plugs in a current motor, just like in an older motor.

 

2000 E320

I was just in the garage trying to get a spark plug out. I removed a ignition coil pack but put it back on since the plug wasn't underneath. I noticed a plug wire leading down and away from the coil pack. It's closer to the exhaust manifold and has a chrome like tube cover. How do I get this baby out? I tried twisting it counterclockwise, it turned and I pulled on it but it didn't come out. I wasn't sure what I was doing so I backed off and came here for advice.

Lugnut, were you making a pass at me when you mentioned my underwear? Just kidding buddy.

 

I have no idea. Your motor is way different than mine.

I wanted to give you time to think of something to say to your lady when she asked how this silvery stuff got inside your underwear, hence my heads up.

 

Thanks Lugnut. Sleepwalker or anyone who has worked on this motor, can you tell me how to get to the spark plugs?

 

I have a 320. Here is what I did. I pulled the wires off the coils and then remove the coils since they are in the way (torques bit or a 4.5mm Allen wrench). Note how the A B wires are connected. I found a 12 inch 45 degree bend needle nose plier and using it along with a Long stiff flat screw driver; I removed the stuck wire boots from the spark plugs. The correct tool would make this much easier.

I used a 3/8"drive knucklehead (u-joint) 5/8 inch spark plug socket with a two inch extension and a long handled ratchet to remove all the plugs. My plugs were VERY tight and squeaked all the way out, a little freaky sounding. Don't worry about that. Your new ones will go in easy with anti seize since it acts as a lube too.

To install the plugs, gap the plugs, set the plug into the socket fully seated so you don't drop it. Use anti seize and the socket and the short extension only to get them started, turning the plugs slowly clockwise until you verify proper thread alignment.

If you have never tightened spark plugs in an aluminum head, then get a buddy to help you or use a torque wrench so you don't **** up your heads. They should go in with just your fingers on the socket extension---no force until the compression seal is in contact with the seat.

Put the rest of the parts on (Lugnut's grease Idea is a sound one earlier in this thread), clean up your mess, start your car and know you did it yourself!

 

2000 E320

I had no problem removing the coil pack (T-25 or 30), but I'm not sure how to remove the chrome like tube cover at the end of the plug wire. Do I just rotate it or yank it?

I've never changed plugs on a car with aluminum heads, do I just tighten the plugs with a ratchet as tight as I can or should I use my torque wrench? Torque spec?

Thank you for your responses everyone.

 

Re-read my note, they have special pliers to remove spark plug wire boots. The look like long wire strippers with curved and padded jaws. The wires pull straight off. the metal you see is a cover to protect the wire from heat. You will be surprised how long they are. No tool? If you can grab them just behind the top collar,with a small pair of channel locks, you can pry against your valve cover with a stiff screwdriver. Just play with different leverage tools. It is hard to explain here. They are unbelievably tight because they are baked on. Take your time, this is a pain in the *** and the hardest part of the job. Wear gloves if you like your hands clean and bloodless.

 

That's kinda how I broke mine. Mine have a finger-sized loop to hook a finger on to and pull. They're designed to be pulled by that loop. I used prying and yanking techniques and broke three or four of the wires. It would be wiser, IMHO, to spend for a removal tool than new wires.

 

I will next time for sure. It WAS Sunday and I tried three open auto parts stores with no luck finding them after I started the project. I had to straighten two of the Shields to salvage the wires.

 

Thanks for your responses everyone. Lugnut, I'm going to spend the money I save by doing the job myself to buy the tool I need.