I have a 1980 240D,

-I noticed an oil line running to the side of the injection pump and it looks as if it is coming from behind the timing chain area. Is the pump lubricated by engine oil?

-I noticed another line on the front of the engine from just below the valve cover to the top of the water pump. Is the water pump lubed by oil?

-And my son will be driving it once a week to deliver pizza's. I tell him just to leave the car running as he runs to the customers house for a just couple mins, instead of shutting it off and starting it every time, especially with my low vacuum it may not always shut off haha. anyways...my question is-should he set a fast idle to keep the oil pressure up as he leaves it idling for a few mins?

Thanks.

 

Ok thanks.

And another thing- the owners manual does not list any "cold start" instructions. Should I have the accelerator held to the floor when cranking? or not at all?
Should the fast idle be set while cranking or after it starts?

And I will need to replace the drivers side engine mount at some point. it looks fairly simple...is it?

And what is a good source for vintage MB parts? Autohaus AZ?

 

Ok I will keep all those companies in mind.

So as for the cold start, I should depress pedal and hold while I engage fast idle, then release the pedal and start the engine after the glow cycle?

When its about 0 Celsius or 32 Fahrenheit, it usually starts then stalls, and will start and continue running on the second attempt. glow plugs are no too old.

 

Another thing I would like to do is through in a new set of brushes in the starter.

Is this possible? are they solder or screw on? does anybody sell them?

 

Another question.

I have developed a small fuel leak from a piece of rubber hose does not look factory. From the bottom of the tank, there is the factory fitting with a rubber hose leaving it, then I see anothe piece of rubber hose connected to it with a coupler and running to the steel line from there....aprox 8 inches.
I need to replace this. Does anyone know what size it is so I can get it all set up and QUICKLY pull the old line and through the new one in before my mouth fills with spilt fuel.

 

Got it out. Just pulled the line and drained the tank into some jerry cans.
Then pulled the fitting off with a 19mm wrench.

Will get a new fitting made up for it.

 

Nobody seems to have the metric fitting, (top of part # 69 in the Haynes Manual page 118)

Im am going to try to use a dye grinder to grind off the crimped clamp and then slide the new fuel line onto the barb and secure with a hose clamp.

I noticed that the underside of my tank is damp with fuel...im betting the return line is leaking also.

 

Got the return lines and the main fuel supply line replaced.

How about the injector return lines? what size of hose are they?

 

And today I bought a new rad cap to replace my rough looking one that is on there, which says 15-18lbs.

But the new cap (stant) says 13lbs. Will that still work?

 

Do you think I can get a 20psi cap at a decent parts store?
How exactly does a rad cap protect against overheating? ive never been fully certain of this.

Is there a typical overheating pattern when its related to a rad cap like excessive idling or the usual long steep grades?