Any areas of reference as to how to start, drive, and operate a 1979 Mercedes 300D in Southern California?

 

I think what you want is a copy of the Owners Manual.
It might be you need to do a Google Search.

You also might try some of the other Mercedes Car Forums.

Occasionally eBay has the original Owners Manuals.

 

Thanks for responding. Yes I do have the owner's manual. What I was looking for were some thoughts advice, tips, ect on driving a diesel in the Southern California driving environment which sometimes can be a little bit more than what an auto manual can provide.

 

I did not notice if you posted the Miles on your Vehicle.

I live in Long Beach CA and Southern California may be close to the ideal place to own a Diesel Car. I drive the Mercedes in the same manner as I do the Gassers I own.

If you are stuck in the City most of the time some say to get it out on the Freeway for a long fast run to help deal with Carbon Build up.

Lots of Truck Stops that have clean Diesel Fuel.

Unless you are in the Desert or Mountains it seldom gets cold enough to give you a bad time starting.

They don't Salt the Roads to de-ice them and the Weather is mostly dry so if your Car came from CA it is not as likely to be rusted out lime the one I have that came from MA.

On the whole the local Auto Part Chain Stores sell parts made in China. You are better off coming to a Forum and asking what parts are good quality and where you might get a good price.

Your Valves need to be periodically adjusted see the Owners Manual for the Service time.
Changing the Oil on Diesels tends to be more important due to the Heat and Soot Build up in the Oil. Some say to change it every 5,000 miles.
The Oil change has a big effect on your Timing Chain Life.

If it is at all possible don't let the Lube-an-tune type Places Change your Oil. They are noted for stripping the Oil Filter Cap Nuts and the Drain Pan Plug.
Use a Mann, Hengst, Bosch, Mhale Oil Filter. Mann used to be the Original Equipment Oil Filter. They don't cost much on the internet.
If you want a US made Oil Filter the Hastings LF380 and Baldwin P102 Oil Filters are excellent. Although they are parts of the same company the Hastings version is easier to find and cheaper.
Avoid the Indian Made STP and Purolator Oil Filters.

Note that you can install brand new Fuel Filters and go fill your Tank with Fuel that is contaminated and it can effect your Car in a matter of Minutes. If you lose Power do not exclude the Fuel Filters or the Fuel Tank Screen just because they were changed recently.

If you look in the Plastic Fuel Filter and you see some Black or Grayish Black stuff you may have stuff Growing inside of your Fuel Tank. That will eventually Plug up your Filters. There is Chemicals Startron and Biobore that People use to kill that stuff.
Till the Problem is over with keep a couple of filters in the Trunk.

If you find a place that has clean Fuel it is better to pay a little more than to deal with contaminated Fuel.
Back in 1975 Truckers told Me a Station near My that has clean Diesel Fuel. Even though it has changed Hands they continue to supply Clean Fuel and I buy there.

Be sure to check you Oil Cooler Hoses, Trans Cooler Hoses, Motor Mounts (the one can cause the Power Steering Belt to cut through the Oil Cooler Hose), Transmission Mount.

Rubber Flex Discs on the Drive Shaft and the Rear Axle Boots. The Original Axles were Filled with Oil. When the Boot cracks enough the Oil Leaks out.
If your Axle starts making noise don't Continue to drive it. Sometimes even after making noise they can be re-lubed, re-booted and re-used. There is a flood of cheap Asian made Axles out there that few have gotten good results from.
The only good new one is over $475.
I could say more but I need to go.

 

@Diesel9112 Thank you for the good information, I think a book is due. Glad I can use your information as reference. As to the vehicle's milage, it's 251,064

 

Did you check your Messages?

 

Sure did and thank you for the information.