Ad hominem attacks indicate your unwillingness to apply reason and thought to your response.

Take a few minutes to contemplate, for example:

<< but that in no way proves that, in the long run, raw VO is better than petroleum diesel >>

The term "better" is subjective, but consider the following.

- Vegoil has higher lubricity than petrodiesel, improving engine economy and longevity
- Vegoil is green, renewable and completely biodegradable
- Vegoil contains no sulfur and burns 80% cleaner than petrodiesel
- Vegoil is part of a closed carbon loop, adding no new carbon dioxide to the environment
- Vegoil reduces dependence on non-US petroleum when used as a fuel
- WVO can be obtained for free most of the time

Clearly, vegoil and biodiesel fuels are "better" than petrodiesel.


<< As one who has been using VO for nearly 2 years, and who fervently hopes that it will not coke up and damage my autos, UNLIKE YOU >>

You need to think more clearly friend. You don't know me, do you think I am a beginner? My 240D runs great on WVO thru my Greasel hybrid conversion. I religiously pre-filter my WVO, change my filters and purge my injection system just as someone who completely understands operation of the system should.

The PRACTICAL automotive application of waste or raw vegoil requires heating to 160F before introduction to the combustion chamber. That in no way makes it a new or "experimental" science.


<< it seems apparent that you are a fervent believer in raw VO as a fuel and that belief is akin to a religion >>

Yes, I'm religious when it comes to a thing called common sense.


<< Hell, if you could bring yourself to read such sacriligious documents done by those with truly rigorous, agnostic minds, even you might learn a thing or two >>

Please think before you post. This forum is designed to help people. Smart-*** comments like yours belong in a Flame Forum somewhere, not here. Your kind of rhetoric doesn't impress anyone -- especially me.

 

I must admit, your last post has elegantly pointed out that you are operating within reliegious beliefs as opposed to rigorous thought. Your preachers pulpit is most obvously greasel.com... now goldenfuel.com... And while he certainly has a lot of info regarding WVO and the collection of WVO, he also misleads his customers into believing that he's the end all be all expert in VO and that burning raw VO and WVO is a proven art... And hey.. regardless of your beliefs... and my wishes that it were a proven art... it just isn't so... and getting angry rather than making an attempt to get other info besides the self serving opinions of one VO kit vender only puts you at a terrible disadvantage.
Still, I wish you the best . Since you seem to be totally committed to greasel, aka, goldenfuel, and his system of belief, I hope you at the very least make some small attempt to educate yourself by researching the findings of the very limited research in the barely touched upon scientific validation or invalidation of burning raw VO as a fuel.....In so doing you may arm yourself with a somewhat broader understanding of what is actually taking place in the highly interesting, yet experimental field of raw VO fuel.

 

Well, maybe there is a possibility that RUG is a valid VO thinning agent but I remain very skeptical because:

While it seems obvious that gasoline will thin VO, it's also obvous that diesel engines ignite fuel under pressure, while gasoline engines ignite fuel under flame. That is, diesel fuel requires cetane values and gasoline engines require octane. In that regard, gasoline does not provide any power to the diesel engine and VO would not provide any power to a gasoline engine. I guess one could add a certain level of VO to a gasser in the hope of providing some upper lubing, but IMO there are other, more efficient lubing agents, just as there are other more efficient VO thinning agents.

To sum up: Gasoline when used as a thinner in diesel engines burning raw VO does not add cetane value while kerosene or #1 diesel fuel or even # 2 diesel fuel are both thinning agents and also add the needed cetane to produce diesel power.

BTW: I'd like to add something like those heating elements to the lines entering the injectors... As you said, Fattywagon pulled them.... I suspect because they tended to overheat.... Yet, it seems to me, if they were somhow made to regulate their heat...by only heating up to maybe 160 degrees before the first startup, and then immediately shutting down....they'd really be a winner....

 

The <lady> doth protest too much, methinks.

Shakespeare's Hamlet, 1603

(Some things never change.) [sm=closed.gif]

 

Cute. I like it!

 

so i think i've decided to do a two tank heating systemi live in utah where it's really cold half the year so i think heating would be the best choice... i'm wondering if anyone knows of any good kits or places to buy parts for it... i'm on a really tight budget and am looking for something in the $500-
$1000 range, preferably on the low end . thanks again for all your help and once again any advice will be greatly appreciated.

 

Check out http://www.greaseon.com/ Have a look at his system andif you are in the least bit mechanical, build your own. In truth, all one needs to do, even in Utah, isuse a single tank system and in the winterthin the WVO with ULSD. Heat it with a glow plug heater right after itgravity feedsout of the main tank so that it's hot enough to flow to the engine compartment. A gp heater consists of black iron water pipe and one glow plug... Maybe $ 30. for parts.... Put one injection line heater on the last bit of metal fuel line under the hood, before it goes intoan added stanadyne type water separator/flilter. Add injection line heaters that can be bought at ebay for $40.00, or make them yourself for maybe $15.00, and you've got a good, cheap workable system for maybe $300. I recently got 5 injector line heaters which I'll soon install.

The following is my set up in my 1982 300D T . I bought the modules from greaseon.com ... It's kind of silly but it does show the gp heaters, clear filters, stanadyne filter, another gp heater, and circuit boss. In the production I'm BBBear , Bruno is the 300D T and Miss Veggie Fuel Manager is the module under the hood, on the dirver's side inner fender. http://mailcenter.comcast.net/wmc/v/...642&sid=c0

 

Hello, I agree with Charles. I bought a diesel car specifically for running alternative fuels at some point. At first I was going to build a biodiesel processor. Then I researched the subject further, and it seemed more people were going with two tank systems and running straight veggie oilinstead of making biodiesel. Then I found people like Charles Munn and Henry Schuman, (and many others as well....) who are running one tank systems, blending when necessary. That is the category I now fall into.Two tank systems are a proven method of running VO in diesels. However, they are complicated. Most systems use coolant to heat the WVO, so you have coolant lines running all over the car. You need a reliable solenoid to switch between fuel sources. You need another tank (probably in the trunk), and heat exchangers, hose within a hose, etc etc.. You still have to run petrodiesel with a two tank system. I am not trying to discourage you at all. I am pretty newat this whole thing myself. I have been researching this subject for about a year, and the single tank system seems the most cost effective and unobtrusive. I personally don't want to drill holes in my trunk, spill WVO in it, etc... Charles has the Greason system, and he will tell you how easy it was to install. The less time you spend buying and installing gadgets, the more time you can enjoy driving the car, and the smell of fried food.

Regards,
John

 

hey that one tank system sounds great... but one more question (actually that's probably a lie) but how much ulsd should u thin it with because it's getting down into the negatives at times so.... maybe a coupla percentages would be nice.... thanks!

 

Hello, Charles would probably have a better idea, he has been doing it longer. I took different ratios of ULSD and WVO and put them in the freezer overnight. I put a indoor/outdoor thermometer on top of the fridge, and put the outdoor probe in the freezer with the jar. I used glass jars to make sure I don't get
any #2 in the freezer. 50/50 started getting cloudy at about 18* but that oil had some moisture in it, That was as cold as my freezer got. 70% #2 with 30% WVO did not cloud at all. I will probably wait till it gets colder outside and put different percentages outside overnight and see what happens. I leave my fuel at 1/2 tank or less in case it gets cold and I need to add diesel. Temps have been in the 40's around here, a little colder at night, the most oil I have added has been about 15% so far. As it gets warmer, I will slowly start adding more oil...

Good Luck,
Regards,
John