I am going to be switching to a Diesel to save some gas money, and an old (early 80's) MBZ seems like a good choice. (I previously owned a '93 300E 3.2, that's my entire MBZ experience) Are there any 'problem' years or models? Any especially reliable years/models? This would be my first Diesel, so I need something that will run like a clock without too much work (if that is possible). Thanks for any suggestions. Maybe someone could recommend a place for more research as well?

 

what is your price range?

 

Good point. I'd like a reliable daily driver for up to $2,000. No need for perfection, just working AC and mechanicals.

 

$2,000 bucks should find you a desent 123, 82-85 300D turbo.

 

Found my car: 1984 300SD. 146k [original] miles, perfect body (exc one shop cart ding), runs better than any old benz I've driven, one owner car w/ records, problem with AC, and one tear on leather. Engine and trans run perfectly. Paying - sigh - $4k. Only a very minor oil seepage from oil pan gasket, no oil on motor, transmission shifting perfectly. No vaccuum problems that I noticed. Starts immediately after plugs heat up. Hope noone will laugh at the price, but I've seen enough 250k+ $2,000 cars. The difference is enormous. Had to break down and increase max price to get a better vehicle. Any advice on mandatory first service? I'm going for oil and trans fluid change, fix the AC, then go over all belts and hoses. I haven't searched the forums yet, but are there any specific recommendations on what MUST be done immediately?

One other problem - oxidized aluminum wheels - I am guessing the treatment is to bead-blast and paint with a clear-coat? I'll have to put it up on stands for a couple weeks for that one...

Thanks for any help.

 

I used to own 83 300 tdt.
Used it for over 2 years and sold it quite higher, that bought.
Cost me some in gaskets and seals replacement, but any car needs those once in 20 years?
You don't list the state.
Sounds like your vehicle is in original pristine condition. Have seen one of those reaching 10 grands on ebay couple years ago. From what I recall those models have some "manufacturing issues" . Cruise control, tachometer and transmission shifting are going down on all of them sooner, or later.
Nothing, that might stop you from driving.
I heard, that blasting aluminum is not recommended, since it can start micro-cracks, so better confirm that with expert.

 

One critical advice. Those engines have oil filter housing made of aluminum. Lot of unfamiliar mechanics like to over-torque the bolts and break them.
Be careful.

 

Don't forget to do a brake fluid flush too. Use the new synthetic brake fluid now available. Check the rear end while your at it, I changed mine to Moble One diff, gear oil.

Remember that the 617 engine will require periodic valve adjustments, as they are non hydraulic.

Sounds like a good one, and good luck with it............BB

 

I do not recommend synthetic brake fluids for vehicles used over the road. First off, the system must be cleaned thoroughly at the outset. Secondly, there is no advantage and you are asking for system rust. DOT 4 brake fluid changed every 2 years is more than adequate if flushed every 2 years in normal service. If you drive/brake very hard and often, you might want to consider using DOT 5.1 fluid, not to be confiused with DOT 5 synthetic.

 

The first time I've heard this! Could you elaborate more? I am running valvoline sun synthetic brake fluid because of hearing others on another forum speak highly of it!

Moisture absorbing brake fluid (all do, but dot 3 and 4, less) will corrode, rust calipers, brake cylinders, clutch cylinders etc. Why use synthetic at all in any application if it is that bad? What is it good for?