300td buying tips?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2
300td buying tips?
I am currently thinking of buying a 198? 300td w/188K miles. Form what the seller says the car has some brake issues that can be remedied by bleeding the brakes. I believe the rear end is sagging a bit as well. But, the vacuum pump has been replaced. HOWEVER I don't believe the car has complete service records and has sat for a while. What should I initially look for? (e.g. oil in coolant etc.) and should I bite if price is less than 1000? Any reply is supremely mucho-appreciated!
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 78
From: Canada
RE: 300td buying tips?
If you feel comfortable, and are going to do the inspection yourself, here is a quick general guide as to what you should look for:
a) With the engine stone cold, squeeze the top radiator hose. It should be soft, and squeezable, if its hard as a rock, and not squeezable, there may be a head gasket issue.
b) Open Radiator cap, and check coolant for any oil contamination.
c) Check engine oil level.
d) Look for any obvious external oil/fuel/coolant leaks.
e) While the engine is still stone cold, start up the car, (make sure the glow-plug light comes on). If it starts up easily, idles smoothly, and there is no excessive black, or other color smoke, than chances are that the glow-plug system, and engine compression is OK.
f) Check Idle speed. Should be 630 +/- 50 RPM
g) Drive the car and listen for any unusual noises, as well as smooth transmission shifting.
h) Take it on the highway, floor the pedal, and look in the rear view mirror for excessive smoke. note the color of the smoke if any. TYPICALLY (but not always) Blue smoke = excessive oil burning, White smoke = head gasket issues. Black smoke= excessive carbon built-up, and/or IP timing, or excessive stretch in the timing chain.
i) Check for engine overheating.
j) Check oil pressure when hot. Should peg at 3 by about 1,600 RPM, and should not be lower that 1 at idle. Max allowed by Mercedes is Peg at 3,000-RPM and not below .3 at idle.
k) On a straight segment of highway, let go of the steering wheel, and make sure the car steers true, and does not wonder to one side of the road or the other.
l) Pull over and with the engine still idling, remove the oil cap. Check for excessive blow-by. Replace the cap, and do the same by removing the oil dipstick tube.
m) Check transmission oil level, color, and smell.
n) Check break operation, including hand break.
o) Listen for unusual exhaust sounds.
p) Check AC and heating for proper operation.
q) Check for any uneven tire wear.
r) Lift-up the carpets and check for rust, or water leaks.
s) Check the trunk for water leaks.
t) Ideally you should put the car on a lift, and look underneath for any structural damage, obvious frame repairs, steering issues, and excessive rust.
u) Do a "Carfax" history search of the car ($19.99 on Line), or get someone with a "Carfax" account to do it for you free of charge.
I may have missed some points. I am sure that others will chime in with some more ideas, or with specific problem areas to look for on this model car.
But most of all, be realistic and don't expect perfection. Weigh your findings, and potential repair costs, versus the cost of the car.
Phil
a) With the engine stone cold, squeeze the top radiator hose. It should be soft, and squeezable, if its hard as a rock, and not squeezable, there may be a head gasket issue.
b) Open Radiator cap, and check coolant for any oil contamination.
c) Check engine oil level.
d) Look for any obvious external oil/fuel/coolant leaks.
e) While the engine is still stone cold, start up the car, (make sure the glow-plug light comes on). If it starts up easily, idles smoothly, and there is no excessive black, or other color smoke, than chances are that the glow-plug system, and engine compression is OK.
f) Check Idle speed. Should be 630 +/- 50 RPM
g) Drive the car and listen for any unusual noises, as well as smooth transmission shifting.
h) Take it on the highway, floor the pedal, and look in the rear view mirror for excessive smoke. note the color of the smoke if any. TYPICALLY (but not always) Blue smoke = excessive oil burning, White smoke = head gasket issues. Black smoke= excessive carbon built-up, and/or IP timing, or excessive stretch in the timing chain.
i) Check for engine overheating.
j) Check oil pressure when hot. Should peg at 3 by about 1,600 RPM, and should not be lower that 1 at idle. Max allowed by Mercedes is Peg at 3,000-RPM and not below .3 at idle.
k) On a straight segment of highway, let go of the steering wheel, and make sure the car steers true, and does not wonder to one side of the road or the other.
l) Pull over and with the engine still idling, remove the oil cap. Check for excessive blow-by. Replace the cap, and do the same by removing the oil dipstick tube.
m) Check transmission oil level, color, and smell.
n) Check break operation, including hand break.
o) Listen for unusual exhaust sounds.
p) Check AC and heating for proper operation.
q) Check for any uneven tire wear.
r) Lift-up the carpets and check for rust, or water leaks.
s) Check the trunk for water leaks.
t) Ideally you should put the car on a lift, and look underneath for any structural damage, obvious frame repairs, steering issues, and excessive rust.
u) Do a "Carfax" history search of the car ($19.99 on Line), or get someone with a "Carfax" account to do it for you free of charge.
I may have missed some points. I am sure that others will chime in with some more ideas, or with specific problem areas to look for on this model car.
But most of all, be realistic and don't expect perfection. Weigh your findings, and potential repair costs, versus the cost of the car.
Phil
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2
RE: 300td buying tips?
Ahh! Thank you much. I keep driving by it everyday trying to poke around and see what kind of shape it's in. It hasn't exaclty been babied but it doesn't look like it's been abused either. So we shall see when I take a look at it.
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 30
From: United States
RE: 300td buying tips?
I'd like to print out and save the advice you've just been given--it's that good. Depending on what climate you are in, check for rust under the hood (salt corrosion) as I saw a lot of Pennsylvania and New York State cars with inner fenders rusting badly, hoods not closing with good alignment, and doors sagging on their hinges.
For $1000, you can't expect perfection,.....well you can, but might settle for a little less. When I bought my 240D I bought $1500 worth of pristine body! I've since spent $3500 on steering, suspension, shocks, and running gear. Depending on what you can do yourself, you make the buying decision. (I can't and won't do body work, so was extremely happy to find a great body, and I did all the other work, with pleasure!)
For $1000, you can't expect perfection,.....well you can, but might settle for a little less. When I bought my 240D I bought $1500 worth of pristine body! I've since spent $3500 on steering, suspension, shocks, and running gear. Depending on what you can do yourself, you make the buying decision. (I can't and won't do body work, so was extremely happy to find a great body, and I did all the other work, with pleasure!)
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