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Wish I could help, I am picking up my 2000 S430 tomorrow and will have the same question. Any idea how to reset the service indicator once you change the oil?
Also, mine has records to 41K, I am going to check with the dealer to see if services are up to date. If not, I will do trans fluid, coolant, differential, brake fluid and the fuel filter right away. It now has 73.5K and I will ink the deal tomorrow, the bottom line price is $23.9 and I hope to get it down further given a lack of complete records. Does this seem like a good price. The car is in superb condition and drives like a dream.
When I find the filter, I'll let you know. I am going to put on a filter magnet (if it is a spin on) and pan bolt magnet right away.
The oil filter is on top of the engine, in the front. Raise the hood, look down to the right, that round black thing is the oil filter. The proper oil for this car is Mobil One 0-40, no other. Use the Mercedes filter and change all of the 0-rings each time you change the oil. It takes 8 1/2 quarts, DO NOT OVERFILL. If you drain the oil from the pan (vs suctioning from the oil dip stick) be certain to install a new copper washer.
See the following I wrote a while ago.
I have finally accomplished my first oil/filter/seals change on the Benz. It was not straight forward; and, there were some surprises.
It does take a lot of torque to remove the oil filter top. It is made from a composite material; and, it is deeply threaded, at the base, to screw into the engine casting. It does unscrew in the standard counterclockwise position; and, mine has an imprinted arrow, for tightening, shown in the clockwise position. Mine (for an S430) is an assembly, which looks expensive to replace.
You should use the proper wrench, to evenly apply the torque to the oil filter top. This makes the job a lot easier. You do not need a MB wrench. I bought an AmPro 76mm with 14 flutes, at a local parts store. It fits perfectly. I believe the part number is T70402. A standard 3/8-drive ratchet fits the wrench perfectly, and works perfectly. If you use large channel locks, you will scar the filter top, and it is likely that you may also crack it, as the torque will be very uneven.
When it is time to tighten the oil filter top, you will find that it screws in by hand, much as American cars do, except you will feel a little tightening during the last turn, as the 0-ring is compressed, to seal the filter in the casting. Less than another quarter turn with the wrench should do the job.
(1) I did not expect to see my oil filter top with a long plastic extrusion, which included another 3 0-rings, the larger portion of the top has a large 0-ring seal, for a total of 4. These 0-rings come with the filter kit; and, my advice is to replace them all. I used a very small wire cutter to lift and cut each ring, eliminating the gouging of the plastic, and the difficulty of trying to remove them in the reverse order of their installation. It is then easy to roll each new 0-ring back up into the groove. I lubed them first; this will reduce the torque needed at the next oil change.
(2) The S430 was designed to suction the oil from the dip stick tube. According to the directions of the manufacturer, it takes about 20 minutes to properly suction out all of the oil. I know my dealer didn't wait any 20 minutes; so, during the last few changes (in warranty) I demanded that they drain the oil from the pan. I noticed that the oil was a lot cleaner, from that point on. The surprise was, it takes almost as long to drain the oil from the pan, as to properly suction it. When I realized this was going to take awhile, I just finished watching a football game, as the oil drained. I hate dirty oil.
(3) My S430 is all buttoned up at the bottom. Plastic pans cover nearly everything. My guess is that this improves gas mileage, by reducing drag. My best mileage has been 32.6-mpg Cincinnati to Cleveland. The oil pan is covered with a plastic pan with 4 screws. It was fairly easy to remove; note, there is a tongue and groove arrangement with an adjacent pan, which shares 2 of the bolts. Don't over tighten these, when you reassemble them.
(4) Surprise #4 was the cartridge filter. It is compression fit, and you must be certain it is seated properly on the extruded tube. You can feel, when it hits the filter top.
I started the engine, and let it run, prior to reinstalling the plastic pan over the oil pan. This allows you to visually inspect the oil plug, to make certain it is not leaking. My oil plug is sealed with a copper washer. It may be a good idea to purchase several of these, in advance of oil changes.
Sounds like a good deal. I got my S430 last month with 75K miles for 23.5K (also in superb cond). I've gone to a few auctions and seen these go anywhere from 22K to 26K. Sounds like merlynp knows his stuf...great post. Service indicator can be rest by holding in the rest button (same button you use to rest the mileage) while on the Service screen.
As far as finding a filter...why not just get one from MB dealer?
Done, I got it from the dealer last week. I did not know they had a cannister type filter I thought it would be the spin on like my 300E. I am just waiting on the Fumato drain valve to arrive and I am ready to change it.
I spoke with the dealer and the days of every 30K tranny changes and differential fluid changes are over. They said they might change the tranny at 100Kbut many go 150 without any service. I do plan to do the coolant and brake fluid in the next month or so. Would you guys go to the dealer for this or have a good local shop do it. I plan to get my local guy to do simple fluids.
My wife just got a 2004 S430 and I need to find the location of the oil dipstick. There is what looks like a oil dipstick on the passenger side front of the engine, but when you pull it out it does not have the long metal dipstick that I'm firmiliar with. Thanks for any help. This is our first German car. ALOD100