Mercedes M Class Mercedes ML350 and Mercedes ML500 SUV's.

2000 ML430 brake booster issue

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  #1  
Old 08-10-2016, 05:35 PM
amaezing's Avatar
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Default 2000 ML430 brake booster issue

New to here, but not new to cars at all. I am having an issue with the brake booster. The rubber boot seal that is at the pedal is leaking BAD. it's a simple rubber boot, kinda like a CV joint boot. Been to all the local crap stores and they are say the same thing. NEED TO BUY A WHOLE BRAKE BOOSTER TO GET THIS SEAL". It's a seal with a part number....03.7718-5018.1....
There has to be a place to buy this piece of rubber!!!!
PLEASE.PLEASE.PLEASE.... someone lead me in the right direction. PLEASE

BTW. I'm in Colorado. It's my girlfriend's car. I need to fix it. PLEASE somebody help me out!
 
  #2  
Old 08-10-2016, 06:59 PM
daemdaem's Avatar
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BTW, I am concerned. Leaking water? I hope not brake fluid. If its water, I would try looking at a local auto wrecker. VW and BMW MAY use the same part . This is a common part. I have fixed torn CV joint boots and a hole in a block with some old blue jean cloth and silicone. If its just a water leak, a $2.00 building supply sized tube of black silicone can work wonders. < and make a mess>
Why am I concerned? If in fact its brake fluid there is no mystery to why. It means that your master cylinder piston seal is bypassing and failing. Yes there are rebuild parts available for this, but not easily. Usually mechanics replace the master cyl. as they usually require a honing and often they are far more costly to repair than a new one. We hope its just a torn or rotted boot leaking water from rain . Allan
 
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Old 11-24-2016, 10:36 AM
barijan's Avatar
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Originally Posted by daemdaem
BTW, I am concerned. Leaking water? I hope not brake fluid...
Probably Amaezing meant to say it's leaking air. Vacuum to be more precise.
It's a very common issue. This seal rips and desintegrates over time and it's almost impossible to buy it separately.
But you can adapt a 40mm axis seal, if you have some of Macgyver's DNA.
You don't need to remove the booster, but it will require a lot of contortionism under the dash.
I did it on mine a couple of years ago and it still holding quite well.
 
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