240D Clutch Problems - Help
 

This is a Question:

I wish that the clutch was better and not on the floor! Since the garage put in the clutch hydraulics,(master & slave) the pedal doesn't come all the way up (which is okay I guess) but the disengage to engage is like about 1/2 to 3/4 inch up off from the floor at best. Have to pump clutch to get into Reverse many times, otherwise all grinding.

Shaw's Garage claims the clutch disc is bad and that is why clutch fingers go in so far to disengage.

But my question is, how come the clutch disc just all of a sudden went bad when I did have half way down disengage? (when it worked)

When I could get the clutch to work, before the hydraulics went out totally, I only had to push the pedal only half way down to disengage. Now after parts are in, it is on the floor. Why?

Were the parts put in wrong? Is there something missing? Is there some type of adjustment?

RE: 240D Clutch Problems - Help
 

My 84 300D has the same problem, it was automatic before it underwent surgical alterations to become manual.
I have to pump the clutch twice when going into reverse or I get the grinding sound. It doesnt happen 100% of the time, but it does happen more often than I would like. I was told when i first learned to drive stick that the reason could be because the gear is still turning (even though it is disengaged)<-- I am not certain if this is fact, but it stuck in my mind.
Maybe the reasoning for pushing the clutch so far is to ensure that you will not ride the clutch while switching gears, who knows.
I hope you get it all sorted out!

RE: 240D Clutch Problems - Help
 

there is adjustments on pedal travel and slave cylinder. if all the adjustments are on maximum and still doesn't work good, then the clutch pressure plate is already too low.
low pressure plate means, the clutch is harder to depress than before, and much lower (flooring) travel.

i recommend dual mass flywheel on diesel engines.