Last summer I picked up "Buttercup", a 1984 300d turbo. The previous owner had decided to weld the balancer to the end of the crank after wallowing out the pins. Little did he know how close he was to destruction as the heat loosened the double roller sprocket behind the main seal that drives the cam/pump chain. I did a full rebuild and have put 7000 miles on since. I just finally put a boost gauge on her and see that I am only running around 8.5 lbs of boost and peaking around 10ish lbs during shifts. I added a flow control valve to the wastegate line and want to tune back to stock. I am assuming that my low value can be attributed to the wastegate spring being old. Rebuilt with all stock internals except .005" over pistons. Have not touched the pump. So I guess my question is, where should I set her? Thanks!

 

Does removing the limiter allow for more travel than adjusting it? By changing my linkage adjustment will I not have to adjust transmission modulator as well? I have already blocked the egr and removed the "whitey" valves and capped all related lines. On another note has anyone played with the atmospheric reference line to the alda from the cab. Seems like I could install a smoke switch for these pesky CO bicyclists.

 

Ok, so maybe the smoke isn't a good idea. Just wondering if it had been explored, seems as if you could introduce vacuum to the atmospheric reference. It also appears that you have been talking to my wife, she often refers to me with the same word. Not sure why diesel sales here are what they are. Every other civilized country in the world has embraced the more efficient engine. Too bad poor Rudolph decided to take a swim. I did turn up boost around 2 psi over stock as I still had a little smoke at WOT. The pump has a tag from a shop in Greeley being rebuilt in 2004, is it possible this extra fuel came from their setup or should I be looking for a problem? I am a firm believer that a properly setup diesel should not smoke, it is just a waste of fuel also causing increased EGTs = Bad!

 

During rebuild I used new chains, guides, tensioners, etc. Static timing is at spec. if I remember right 24 degrees BTDC. I do not have any other method of fine tuning pump timing. I have read about the dynamic timing devices but haven't purchased anything. I did have to pull and stab a couple times to get it right and I used the drip method. I modified the rear bracket at the oil filter housing so that the pump is much easier to remove. I have not checked fuel pressure. How do I do this? On the return side? With no restriction back into the tank would this not just show volume vs. pressure. How much sense has the EPA ever made. Gas engines pumping fresh air into the exhaust, yeah it looks better on the meter but we all know what it is doing. How about the venturi in the exhaust in the new diesels? Another introduction of fresh air before an opacity check. How does getting 20% or better less fuel economy on the newer diesels support better emissions, after all I am consuming more fuel? Feels as if we are taking buckets of water from the shallow end to the deep end to fill the pool. Hell, when I order steel it usually comes from China. The EPA has run off a business that built our country. And by the way, don't they know nitrogen is 78% of our atmosphere?

 

Totally off topic, but how do I reduce a picture so that I can post it? Buttercup wants to be online.

 

So, ForcedInduction, how do you do your work at an apartment? I assume that is your car that ate the girls on the moped?

 

with the new crop of vehicles (i.e. 2013/14 models) are all headed towards the diesel motors. Theres a 2014 grand cherokee available as diesel as well as a mazda 6 and chevy cruze. back in the 80's the diesels produced were noisy and unreliable (for the most part). today's diesel engines are cleaner and more fuel efficient. VW is a good example, as they offer several TDI models and have been for awhile. Ive come across a 02 beetle tdi (which apparently is fairly rare) as well as a 12 vw jetta tdi. from what ive read/experienced, it would seem as though diesels are makin a comeback

 

Back in the day I had an 85 3/4 ton suburban with the 6.2 Detroit. It wasn't quick or fast but got right around 25 miles to the gallon. With a 40 gallon tank it made for a long time between fill ups. Never had a problem one. The newer TDIs get vastly better gas mileage than my 300. But, alas, I am in love with the beautiful simplicity of an all mechanical engine.

 

agreed. i had an 84 f150 a couple years back (straight 6 300) and i replaced several parts with no formal training or anything. i really like the simply mechanical (as opposed to everything being electronic/run by a computer) motors that dont require expensive specialty tools and a ****load of rewiring/reprogramming. one example is the tpms sensor lights in the newer cars that come on with like 1 psi off of what a tire is supposed to be filled at. plus the sensors need frequently and the entire process is a giant pain in the ***. im with apmattg in the old, purely mechanical motors

 

My current vehicles are a 1983 300d, 1974 IH Scout II 345 (points even), and a 1958 BMW Isetta 300 (Erkel Car) that stays in the garage until she goes on a trailer to a show. She has a dynastart, all in one unit. Starter, charger, and ignition timing. Change the brushes every once in a while. Done. Hell, aircraft are still magnetos. Tried and true, why change it?