First off. Thanks for having me as a member of the forum. I've read so many times and appreciate the network that has been established.

Vehicle:2003 SLK 230 Kompressor with 11k miles on it, I been owning this car for the past 3 years.

Today I go to start and although all dashlights (and radio) came on, no ignition. No cranking/kicking. I try a few other times, same thing. Went through standard battery checks and recharge, still the same thing. I definitely believe thatthe battery is in good shape. I had that problem couple weeks ago. All the light in the dash board was normal. I wait around a bit then it started when I turn the ignition key.Can't figure out why there is no cranking.

The same happened a few weeks ago I wentto a store and when I tried to crank the carnothing happened, after 30 minutes or so of trying finally the car started up but when I came home it started doing the same thing.

Waited a few hours and start working fine. The same day I started checking with my 12v tester and when I check one cable that connects to the computer I heard a small sound (like a circuit activating) and tried to start the car and it works.

It kept happening and every time when I touch the same cable with the tester it started working, I guess is like if I were making ground or something. I thought it could be something related when the car is inpark but I guess is not that.

Just so you know battery was replaced a few month ago due to the same situation.

All the help I can get will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance guys.

 

Hi,
The thing that stands out in your description is "No Ignition". What makes you come to this conclusion.
The dash lights are on so I would have expected you to say "Ignition comes on".

OK Battery OK. Sure you got about 14.5 volts at battery with engine running 2000 rpm? OK I accept its not the battery.

No Crank. Auto Change Speed Selector / Brake pedal DIOES play a part in this. Brake pedal is a known prioblem area., Two circuits. One Normal Open contacts, the other Normally Closed.

So what lead / contact are you putting your voltmeter on (got a pic, location, wire colours etc. You may be earthing the starter solenoid relay but the ignition on MB is a little more complicated than many since the Driver Activation system / security is integrated.

Does key turn and no crank, or won't the kty turn in the lock.
These are two very different issues.

Get back and I will try to take this to the next level.

 

Thanksa lot snanceki.

When I turn thekeyto start position all lights and radio works as usual, the problem is whenI try tocrank the engine, the key turns perfectly, it doesn't do any crank, like when you leave the car in drive or reverse and not in park.The battery is perfect but I have to check with the engine running at 2000 rpm.

I'll get pictures and the exact location and color of the wire tonight and post it here.

I really appreciate your help, happy holidays.

 

I await wiring pic.

Since the change speed level (CSL) is not locked in Park it is likely NOT the brake light switch.

The Crank circuit is fed thru the CSL position sensor to ensure Crank" is only possible in Park / Neutral. Not sure if the SLK is adjustable in any way. Adjustment is possible on some makes. Adjustment however can be incorrectly adjusted so many manufacturers "design" this possibility out. Think no adjustment on SLK but not sure.

Moving to Park (or jiggling lever about) once the ignition has been turned ON requires that the ignition key is turned OFF then back ON with the CSL sensor confirming trans is in Park. This is due to the way MB sense gear position / inhibit crank.

Although not a definitive answer I would suspect the CSL module is faulty in some way. Unfortunately this is a moderately expensive component.

You advise that the battery, starter relay/solenoid are working OK when activated by your under hood "hot wire".

Usual SLK "ignition" problem is Crank but No Start and is due to fuel relay but that's NOT the problem with yours.

Spilt any water near the CSL? Left the roof open? Anything else not right?

Anything else to add to the description?

Since you are able to get the vehicle started using your "under hood" technique your best course of action is to get the vehicle diagnostic codes scanned.
The codes I would be looking for are the body electrics rather than the engine and this requires that either a main dealer or some other specialist (expensive) equipment undertakes this work.
Only a few moments but you are at the mercy of the dealer who does the scan.
Get an agreed price upfront and ensure they only carry out any work once you have a comprehensive hard copy report from the scan machine that includes Chassis No etc and you are confident that what they say requires doing.
You may like to check here and see what we think on the basis of the code data.
You can of course see if anything turns up on a straight OBDII scan which can be done extremely quickly and cost effectively by anyone with simple liow cost equiopment.
Stuart

 

did you ever solve problem and if solve what was the problem

 

Anyone ever find a solution to this problem ? Mine is doing the same thing, intermittently won't turn over but get all the dash lights. And every once in a while it cuts off while driving.

 

I am also having the same problem my battery died out on kompressor 230 and now after replacing the battery the car will not crank over, it allows me to place the key in the ignition and turn it, all of the lights turn on and the radio but it will not crank. I thought maybe the electronic key might need to be reset can anyone help?