First off. Thanks for having me as a member of the forum. I've read so many times and appreciate the network that has been established.

Vehicle: 1999 SLK 230 Kompressor

I purchased this vehicle in Mar. 07 and knew prior that it needed some work (new air bag system, other minor things). Vehicle was working well for the last 4 months. Here are the issues:
- Remote Key died 4 weeks ago. Replaced batteries and reset car battery, nothing. Followed instructions on forum to reprogram key, still nothing.....Been using the door locks manually as the blade is still in good condition.
- More recent bigger issue: Yesterday I go to start and although all dashlights (and radio) came on, no ignition. No cranking/kicking. I try a few other times, same thing. Went through standard battery checks and recharge, still the same thing. I definitely believe thatthe battery is in good shape. Can't figure out why there is no cranking. I am assuming the starter will need to be checked. But I'm not sure what else it may be if it's not the starter.
- I heard that the remote keys have a certain amount of usage before they go dead. Since the remote died 4 weeks ago, could this have something to do with my car not starting???
All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks again for welcoming me to the Forum.

 

OK.
No crank = No power OR other possibilities.
However No crank and no "bulb check" routine eliminates/reduces likelyhood of most of the "other possibilities".

Suggest that you have a dead battery. They can go overnight. OR you have a loose connection at the battery or the other end of the main cables. i.e. ground and fuse box.

Simple test is battery voltage.
What is it without any load? Should be circa 13 - 14v.
If less than 12.5 battery is gone for good even if you are able to recharge it will let you down again.
If battery voltage is OK at battery what is it at the fuse box and ground?
The other possibility is a DAS "lockout" (immobiliser) especially since you have been having remote locking problems.
If the dash warning lights don't come on what about the headlamps. Do these work OK? If so this would suggest the battery OK.
If the vehicle battery and connections are OK then you need to ensure good batteries in the remote plus the reset procedure. You may also needto disconnect the vehicle battery for a period of time to enable the vehicle ECU's to reset.
If after these suggestions/checks you still have a problem I believe we do not have ALL thefacts.

Let us know how you get on.
Stuart.
Stuart

 

Thanks Stuart

The headlamps come on and are bright. When I turn the key all dash lights come on. I will check the fuses and main cables tonight.
What is this DAS "lockout" (immobiliser)?
How long should I disconnect the battery in order to reset the vehicle's ECU? (whatdoes ECU stand for?)

 

DAS - Drive Authorisation System ... means all ok lets go
ECU - Engine Control Unit (computer)
Batt off for min 30 mins. (neg lead, quick off, quick on 30 mins later, dont wipe terminal on batt post.
Beware some Gauge clusters have been known to go faulty due to electrical spikes from batt lead off/on
Peeps now fit a surge suppressor across terminals.

Bazzle

 

Thanks Bazzle.
Stuart.

Out of interest did you add P1580 to your exhaustive MB OBD listing? Came up on "Stranded at camp site" thread.

 

Thanks guys. It started last night and this morning. Drove it to my mechanic and didn't start again. While trying to start, the mechanic whacked the starter and it slowly started back up. Definitely the starter. The mechanic's part guytold me that I would need to replace with a Valeo ($265.00) and a Bosch ($150.00) or equivalent would not work. Think he took me for a ride? Any thoughts?

Still having issues with the remotekey. Please refresh on how I could get to work, codes, etc.

Also, in the process of replacing the air bag system as this rebuild went through an accident with air bag deployment. Found a usedSteering Console for $100.00 in Rhode Island ($25.00 shipping). Not a bad deal. Next step, replacing console and air bag system.