Jacking guidance
 

I need to replace the fuel pump on my 2001 SLK320. I need some instructions on how to jack the rear end up high enough to get under the car to change the pump. The native car jack is too unstable at its highest point and I am unsure where to support the vehicle once I get it high enough.

Thanks,

George

RE: Jacking guidance
 

Is it OK to jack the car up under the differential? Then where should I place the jack stands.

Thanks,

George

RE: Jacking guidance
 

You are wise not to get under the car using the standard roadside emergency jack.

Not sure if the differential is an APPROVED jacking point although it is often used as such....ensure adequate protection and load distribution to the diff casing.

The axle stands would go under the plastic "pads" at the rear (also front) if you wereworking that end) of the plastic sill covers.

Garages use wheel free (4 post) lifts these days and MB don't encourage DIY!

Stuart

RE: Jacking guidance
 

Well my repair job is finished and was successful. A few points about the jacking aspect:

I agree with all posters that said beware of the tire changing jack, that thing is downright scary. I once had the car slide sideways off of the jack while apposing rear wheel was still on the floor. Never get under the car with any roadside jack.

I got every opinion imaginable in the 3 forums that I use about jacking under the differential. A few guys with a lot of posts said that it was an approved MB proceedure so I went with this method although many said no way. I used a floor "trolley" with a rubber pad on the lifting sureface and centered it under the case. No apparent damage but only time will tell.

As far as the "rubber" lifting pads under the rocker near the tire jacking points. Mine are a very hard and slick plastic, or hardened rubber. When I placed a flat topped metal jack stand under this pad it slid around like a piece of furnitire on one of those teflon coated moving disks, scared the hell out of me. I had visions of the jack squirting out under a load like a rifle shot. Instead I used a pair of screw jacks with flat tilting heads that have an agressive non-skid surface on top (Northern Tool). When I lowered the car down on these stands, the non-skid points of the stands bit into the disks and the car was rock solid.

I always leave the floor jack under the differential to give me redundancy and of course block the front wheels to prevent movement in either direction.

Thanks for all of your inputs,

George

RE: Jacking guidance
 

The intended jacking points are made of (hard) plastic) and are intended to be used with a shallow saucer shaped jacking head.

An anti slip pad is a good idea but the mechanical cup shape is even better. Thegreater the load the less the chancethey will move "sideways".

The black plastic pads transfer the load thru the plastic sill covering into the structure below.

Glad all went OK.

Safety should always be your first consideration when under the vehicle.

Stuart..

RE: Jacking guidance
 

Stuart

Who makes/sells jack stands with the shallow saucer feature that you mention?

Thanks,

George

RE: Jacking guidance
 

Hi George,

As far as I am concerned its a matter of tell me a manufacturer that doesn't.

Sorry to be not much help.

Stuart.

RE: Jacking guidance
 

Stuart

That must be a European/British thing because most of the American jack stands have a "V" shaped top to go under the axles, not to go under a round inverted dome shape. This "American" style will not even make contact with the dome, only the metal around it. Do you know of a UK internet vendor with a good selection that ships to the States?

Thanks,

George

RE: Jacking guidance
 

George.

Sorry George I was referring to the jack rather than the axle stands.

Axle stands do have a V with a truncated bottom to the V. Maybe the angle issue as well but certainly trolley jacks use the saucer shape for obvious reasons (originally intended to go underround diff!)

I guess if I think about it the axle stand goes under an axle which has an axis which would drop into the V.

Suggest you get an adaptor (or mod cradle) made up locally.

I continue to use cubes of wood (made during my studentdays 40 years ago) in order to save money with a hollow the dia of the pad in the upper surface to represent the saucer.. No chance of the pad slipping off and equally stable / rigid as axle stands. Also more versatile since I can stack them two (possibly three if I had enough of them) high if required.

Stuart