Mercedes SL Class Mercedes SL500 and Mercedes SL600 Roadsters.

SL560 1987 blower motor

  #1  
Old 09-25-2011, 02:57 AM
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Default SL560 1987 blower motor

Hi

where can I get that blower motor???
mine is not working properly and so far could not find one for the 1987er car of mine. only the one before but than have to replace the plug and i dont know if the one in my car is still good
better to change the whole part.

can someone be of help?
thanks
 
  #2  
Old 09-26-2011, 05:00 AM
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Hi again

Do I really need to replace the blower motor?

It makes terrible noises when I have the AC on.
It sounds like it wont rotate perfectly.
It starts to get worst after a while and I think it stops and then goes on again.

Can I do something about it? Mercedes garage told me to replace it....

I hope to get an answer quite quick as I am already googeling for spare parts.

thanks a lot
 
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Old 09-26-2011, 05:12 AM
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I have found this and wonder if this would solve my problem? Can someone explain what they mean by the two brushes? Is this the real part of it? But to replace it, would I just need to buy the blower motor? Sorry for asking but english is not my mother tongue and I do not know much about cars
I just want to understand these things to get the best solution. Spent way too much on the car so far... THANKS


For all 107 chassis SL and SLC built from 1972 to 1989. This repair guide will take you through the process of how to properly remove your heater blower motor and replace the motors two brushes. This is the most common reason for failure. If your blower motor has been intermittent or some days it will not come on until you drive for a while your motor brushes are most likely at the end of their life. This is something you may just want to replace as a preventative measure. 15+ year heater motor brushes are very prone failing at any time. If it has not failed yet it most likely will sometime soon.
Along with this detailed instruction guide I will provide you with a set of new brushes (which I have diligently sourced). You will need a soldering iron and a few common hand tools to complete the job. If your car has a over 150,000 miles on it or you know the heater motor has been run a lot, the best time to do this job is now! Do not wait for it to quit on you on a cold winter morning.
IMPORTANT: If you are planning to replace your heater motor brushes I highly recommend you have a high output soldering pencil on hand. If you don't, then I recommend you purchase the one we sell on our website. It is a powerful 60 watt unit and works great!
 
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Old 09-26-2011, 10:54 AM
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Default New Motor, Brushes, or just Lube

If I understand your posts correctly, your blower motor works, but squeals when running and you think sometimes it stops? Right?

Before you consider replacing, I'd start with the simplest and least expensive solution first and work 'up' from there. My bet would be that the points where the shafts holding the 'bird cage' like fans, and the motor itself meet are dried out. This happend to me, and working the extention nozzle of a can of WD40, toward where these components(motor & shaft) meet worked for me.

BTW, if your brushes are bad, there won't be any squealing from the motor, it simply won't run. That said, I got a set of these as spares when the inevitable happens in a 30+ year old car.

Bob
 
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:55 AM
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Hello,

thanks so much for replying.

Yes, it rotates, but after a short while it blocks and makes noises, then unbocks and works and so on and so on.
Even Mercedes wants to replace it, but they always replace everthing and dont really repair.

I have bought WD 40 and some other stuffs. Will take car to work tomorrow and do try the things you told me. Dont understand all of it but will try. just open the cover of the blower motor and spray :-)
Dont see these really
shafts holding the 'bird cage' like fans, and the motor itself meet
Ive opended it before to clean everything as leaves and so on get inside everything.


Wouldnt you advice to get that part anyways just in case for the future as they wont be rebuild anylonger? I can try to find a cheap one. Less than 500 bucks.
 
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:35 AM
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Dont see these really
shafts holding the 'bird cage' like fans, and the motor itself meet
Ive opended it before to clean everything as leaves and so on get inside everything.


That's correct, you can't 'see' the exact lubrication point to spray. That's why using/fishing the plastic nozzle extension as close as you can to the end of the shaft is important.

A word of caution...to do this 'by the book', you would need to remove the fan motor from the box so you can get at everything. The 4 nuts/bolts that hold the motor in it's enclosure are always rusted and many make the mistake of just throwing a wrench on them and attempting removal. There are horror stories of the bolts breaking off and causing some very expensive additional repair work. That said, if you do decide to either remove the existing motor for lubrication or to replace it with a used one, soak, and I mean soak for a few days time, the nuts with PB Blaster or equivalant.

Wouldnt you advice to get that part anyways just in case for the future as they wont be rebuild anylonger? I can try to find a cheap one. Less than 500 bucks.
I don't know if I can really help you with that decision, it's your money. Replacing a used one with another used one may buy you some or lots of time...who knows. If you plan on keeping the car for another 20 yrs., I'd buy a new fan motor. If you're simply getting rid of an annoying squeal and operating problem, I'd try lube first with motor in place; if that doesn't work, take the motor out and work on it at a bench. When I did mine (lube) it was meant to be a temporary 'fix'...it lasted for another 7 years and was running fine when I sold the car. Good luck-
 
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Old 09-29-2011, 04:01 AM
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Well. 3 of fou screws can be removed. The fourth just sits so that is impossible to get to it. There is also another lil part in the way
Tough cookie
Cant get to the screw
Shooot
I will just pray like that then
 
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Old 09-29-2011, 04:09 PM
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I would have another stupid question. When buying a newblower motor, will the motor/engine be a part of it?
I sprayed everything and let it run
First it was ok, but then this noise came back. Could be the engine/motor then?
Can i make a video of it and post it or is someone On facebook where i could upload a video easily

How do u get to that screw in front left side when it is so damn blocked by that other part and is blocked also by platic of the blower motor itsel? How did u manage that?

Question
If i take blower motor out, i can still drive the car, right? It is only for A/C and heater....

Thanks so much!!!!!
 
  #9  
Old 09-30-2011, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by MBSL560
I would have another stupid question. When buying a newblower motor, will the motor/engine be a part of it?
YES
I sprayed everything and let it run
First it was ok, but then this noise came back. Could be the engine/motor then?In my opinion, if you got it to stop squealing, even for a little while, you're on the right track. I really don't think it's the motor itself
Can i make a video of it and post it or is someone On facebook where i could upload a video easilyutube may be best for your purposes

How do u get to that screw in front left side when it is so damn blocked by that other part and is blocked also by platic of the blower motor itsel? How did u manage that?I'm sorry to say that I can't remember exactly as it's been at least 12 years since I've done that job. That said, I don't remember any obstructions that couldn't be removed or circumvented

Question
If i take blower motor out, i can still drive the car, right? It is only for A/C and heater....YES

Thanks so much!!!!!
Good Luck,

Bob
 
  #10  
Old 10-04-2011, 04:14 AM
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hi sun guy

I have managed to get the blower motor out of the car :-)
just cleaned it up on my dining table :-)

I will put it back tomorrow and will let it run for a while to see if it is still squeeling. I took a picture to show you the brushes. I guess you mean the two white plastic ones :-)
Can you see the "black" spots there? Does this mean that it is time to change them or soon? You told me you sell them or can tell me where to order them? I can easily remove them for replacing? Did not see that fast how to remove them... :-)

Would be nice if this will be a cheaper way to solve the problem also as I do not really trust my mechanics anymore. I have paid thousands and still I have problems. The car starts to shake again. Not so bad, but still. It anoys me. I paid for it a lot such transmission and new cylinder (like 1500 dollar).

AND by the way. When cleaning the blower motor I played with the brushes. The squeezing noise I hear when using the blower motor is such sounding like if the brushes are working against the plastic cover. I heard it a when I turned them.

thanks
 
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Last edited by MBSL560; 10-04-2011 at 04:17 AM.

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