2001 ML 320 won't even crank
 

Have had a starting problem with my ML for the past two months. Changed the cps, check wiring in the steering column, cleaned battery terminals, new starter relay, etc. but once every week or two, I turn the key and nothing. Seems like it has an intermittent dead short somewhere.

No click, no grind, nothing. Let it set for an hour or two and it starts right
up and is good for another week or so.
Thinking it's a dead spot in the starter ( which has 80K on it and was replaced four years ago) because the solenoid doesn't even engage.

Thx for any advice.

Vince

Hi Vince, I have post it same question little while ago (received no reply) but when it happens on mine, my speedometer (RPM) gauge will jump to max and back. But second touch of the key will started up no problem. I'm guessing it's the starter solenoid in both of our cases. I have new starter ready but it is not offten enough for me to replace it yet. In the starter, there is set of contacts that your solenoid has to connect together to send the power down to your starter motor. If the contacts are burned up, solenoid will click but without making this connection, your starter will not turn. So if there is no loud click and your new starter relay is supplying power to the solenoid terminal, your solenoid is bad.
Contacts burning are common problem on Chrysler starters limiting the movement only half way of the thickness of the contacts and stoping working primaturely with plenty of life on the contacts. I have opened two of them, filed the contact stopper down as much as the remaining contact thickness and voila, working again as new with double of the original service life!
Good luck,
Bernard

Bernard:

Thx for the reply. Last Saturday the same problem occurred and I jacked up the car and from underneath, I crossed the wiring on the solenoid and it engaged and I got the car started. Does your response still apply that the solenoid is shot??
Thx.

Vince

Yes, you have a bad solenoid. Your starter motor is fine if you can jump it and crankes fine. I would connect long wire with 12V bulb at the end to the solenoid first and try to crank just to make sure you are getting power from the relay to the solenoid before removing it. I can check the resistance of the solenoid on my new starter if you want to compare and confirm that is bad.
Bernard

Bernard:

Thx for your reply. Just spoke with a mechanic and he said I may have a faulty starter inhibitor switch.
Sound familiar?? Again to repeat, this happens only once every week or so.

Vince

Starter inhibitor switch is actually the solenoid (switch is the electric contact inside of the solenoid) connecting positive cable from your battery with starter motor winding.
Solenoid is doing two jobs simultaneously, pushing out starter gear to your flywheel while switching power to starter motor.
Cleaning the switch (contactor) contacts inside of the solenoid may give you extra year or two of good service but some solenoids are not very easy to take apart. Plus complete OEM Bosch rebuild starters go for around $200 on e-bay so new solenoid should be around $50.
Good luck, Bernard