Who invented synthetic oilwhen and why?

 

Barrack Obama in 1946.

 

Cliff here's a basic start. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil
A lot of my info comes from Agip's lab they our or where the 4th largest motor oil manufactor. They do not run synthetics in there engines do to combustion make a lot of dirt and the dirt needs removed either by changing or extra fitering to keep clean."Oils cheap for them" so they change it.They do run synthetics in every other part of there trucks. With their trucks plugged in, or insideduring winter months theirs no benifets of cold starts. My equipment sit's out side so I run synthetics in the winter, and it can be 0*F and it turns over just as easy as 60*F weather. I do change my filters on regular intervals, and change the oil to every 2 filters. With no signs of bearing or valve train wear from tests. My Benz auto tranny loves synthetic and shifts great. No matter what oil you run it has to meet the cars spec's as the addittives can be hard on seals "not the oil."

 

Try http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil if you haven't already.

The bottom line is EXTREME conditions hence use in F1 engines where cost is not important.

I use Mobil 1 because it is the recommended lubricant but I suspect any advantages are small and may not apply to my duty cycle/usage pattern.
We do not have extreme weather nor do I drive at >90% for hours on end.
In addition I do not tow a trailer at or beyond the recommended GTW (Gross Train Weight) up steep hills etc

I do however use the advantage of extended service intervals as indicated by the FSS system.

I note that my oil is a golden brown colour with no deposits (sludge) on the oil cap or camshaft components below even at 140k miles.

As Wiki states most wear takes place at cold start.
IMHO Mobil 1 appear to reduce various ticking sounds when cold presumably becuase it circulates more quickly (0w/40) than some other oil types but this may be a viscosity rather than oil type/origin issue.

Just use what is recommended and you are likely to get the best (compromise) solution of COST, life, wear protection etc and you will also avoid any potential pitfalls from some possible problem of incompatibility.

Stuart

 

Stuart what Benz do you have gas or diesel? Note mobile one does not meet diesel spec's due to it's shear strength. Unless they made something new. It has been quite a few years ago I quite buying drums of mobile one. Loved the oil but started running a lot of diesels, and had a Detroit marine 892 take the lower end out. Detroit wouldn't back it up due to mobile one.

 

Interesting point you make. Not sure if there is a Mobil 1 Diesel.
Mine is a M112 (gas) so no issue.
I wonder what the MB recommendation is for the 320 V6 diesel.

I would have expected it to be Mobil 1(Diesel) but MAYBE the recommendation is different on diesels. I'm sure somebody will advise.

Stuart

 

All oils for cars and trucks have additive packages. It's what eventually breaks down in all oils, even synthetics. The additive packages are what keep coke & carbon, some chemicals, and metal particulates away from bearing surfaces.

It's folly to think that synthetics can go for 50K or so as some claim. You're not gambling that much on the oil itself, as it's up to the task. But depending on your conditions, the “additive package” is long used up.....that's the danger with high mileage, synthetic changes. Changing your filter (which does rid of some contaminants), but leaving the same oil in does not 'rejuvenate' your oil, as the additive package is still breaking down daily with use. I disagree strongly with the statement that just one qt of fresh oil will again supply enough critical additives to rejuvenate the used oil (synthetic) already in the oil pan. That's nothing more than a dangerous, shade-tree myth. Any good lab that tests used oil will debunk that myth.

Even still, with a product like Amsoil, one can expect 8-10K with a filter change at 5K and be safe. And yes, it's the additives that change the shape & soften seals enough to leak, not the oil. Often I say "the synthetic oil'....but in reality, since you can't separate the two anyway, it serves no purpose to say the "additive package" makes the seals leak in the combustion engine. That implies that you could/should somehow remove the additive package which is of course, impossible in the field.

I'd sure like to know what would be the MB equivalent for the hydraulic fluid used in the 4matic system, so I could go with something else synthetic.

Kevin

 

Somebody has not been around MB diesels for quite a long time!
Those mobil 1 specs for high temp high shear non use in MB diesel engines was for pre 97 pre FSS extended service interval diesels.
If you are running a pre 97 diesel you are most likely not on synthetic oil and if you are running a 1998 and newer FSS engine you are on mobil1 0w40 0r equal mb spec synthetic and 2007 and newer diesels mobil1 5w40esp.
If in doubt whip your manual out

 

The process was developed by the German researchers Franz Fischer and Hans Tropsch, working at the Kaiser Wilhelm Institute in the 1920s. It is now popularly known as "Fischer-Tropsch" process. It was used extensively in World War II by Germany as it had limited access to crude oil supplies.

 

The process was developed by the German researchers Franz Fischer and Hans Tropsch, working at the Kaiser Wilhelm Institute in the 1920s. It is now popularly known as "Fischer-Tropsch" process. It was used extensively in World War II by Germany as it had limited access to crude oil supplies.

Fromwhat I read, the Germans used the principleto make synthetic gas/fuel, not oil, from coal rich supplies they had....while they were starved/cut off from crude oil during WWII. I find no mention of them making synthetic oil during that period, although if they were starving for crude, it would make sense that they did experiment with alternative oil.

Kevin