I jst replaced my o2 sensor last week......the problem is that the rpms are still surgeing up and down to the point where it dies on me. Could the idle control sensor be screwed up? If so where is it located? what else could be the cause of the idle shooting? How long should it take for the new o2 sensor to kick in?

 

Hi,
Why did you change the O2. Due to the shooting idle?
replacement O2 sensor should be operational immediately although it may require an extended drive to extinguish the CEL (Check Engine Light).
"Shooting" idle could be many things.
Need to access the DTC's (Defect trouble Codes) using a scanner. This will narrow the field somewhat.
Without any further information I can only make a stab in the dark.
I would suspect the idle control.
Either the idle system is "sticking" slow to respond or it isn't getting an effective speed signal from the crank speed sensor and therefore unable to achieve a balanced feedback.
Idle hunting can also be due to very rich mixture. If this is the case you could ruin your cats. Get the DTC's.

 

I got a dtc scan and no codes popped up. and on another note i never got a check engine light. When this all started i checked the codes and got a 2 and a 6. 2 being the fulty o2 sensor and 6 being a faulty idle sensor. I have been limping my car to and fro to try and burp it in case there was a rich mix. Its been a week of solid driving with no prevale. I just ran a dtc and received no codes. Im really scratching my head on this one. One min its ok when driving the next it feels either like gas is being cut from the engine (or taping your brakes) or jolting forward with much acceleration. And on a side note when in park it does the same when in drive. I can still smell unused fuel from the pipe. Im at a lost here with little money to go on. Im almost about to give up.

 

Ok i just replaced my sparkplugs...they were fried. Now i am getting my codes back but only one. It is 6 blinks......if i read correctly it is the idle speed control inoperative.........How do i fix and what would i need to buy?

 

where did you get your dtc's checked? not at an auto parts store right? for starters there is a system called ASR your car may have it. well it control the throttle actuator and puts it into limp home mode when there is a problem. you need to get all the dtc in the car read. not just the codes in the d.m diagnostic module. your throttle actuator is in the center of your motor under your air mass sensor. you may even have a bad throttle actuator control unit and a bad throttle actuator they cost about 3k. so unless you got 3k to try test parts at your car go to the dealer and have them hook up a star diagnostic machine to it