2001 C240 SPARK PLUGS, OIL CHANGE, MAF - HOW TO REPAIRS D.I.Y.
#1
01-15-2008, 10:12 PM
2001 C240 SPARK PLUGS, OIL CHANGE, MAF - HOW TO REPAIRS D.I.Y.
OK this D.I.Y. Post should aid you in a couple reapairs on your 2001 C240, but should apply to the 1999-2005 c240's as well.
Background before starting, my Check Engine light was on and my indications from the car were poor pickup or slugglish/surging acceleration. Like it wants to go smoothily but then choked a bit. After the car warmed up it wasnt so bad, but still present. Also my Codes given were Bank 1 Fuel Trim & Bank 2 Fuel Trim.
Replacing your MAF - AMM - MAS (Mass Air Flow - Air Mass Meter - Mass Air Flow : Sensor)
I did all 3 of these today. I have no experience with a Mercedes Benz, just a good working background in Mechanical work. It took me 3.5 hours to do all 3 repairs. I used a mechanics bay at work, that is provided by the Army. All tools and lifts.
Also I am NOT a MECHANIC, but these techniques should work for your c240. If you find any errors in this guide please post, it only helps us all.
ONE LAST THING. After I reconnected my battery I got a ESP MALFUNCTION - ESP - Electronic Stabiliy Program Not found or Not installed.
To correct this. Start the car. turn your wheel full left, then full right, then full left. Turn off the engine, and restart.
This technique Reprograms the ESP.
TOOLS Needed:
1 - Standard Flat Head Screw Driver
1 - 10mm socket and socket wrench and 10" Extenstion if you so choose.
Parts Needed:
1 MAF (Will be refered to as MAF for the rest of the post)
REPAIR:
Use the 10mm Socket wrench and remove the Negative and Positive Cables.
Remove the plastic intake tubes, just compress the tubes and they pull off.
Remove the front Engine cover. Pull the end closest to the front up the car up then toward you.
Remove the Rear Engine cover. Pull Up the front and then the rear end.
Remove the plastic ring around the top of the MAF.
Unplug the MAF
On the Back of the MAF there is a metal clip, I used my finger to pry it back, but you could use a screwdriver.
Remove the MAF and replace with new one.
Reconnect the Cable.
Attach Plastic Ring.
*At this point you can reconnect your battery and see if
your check engine light is still on.
DONT ERASE YOUR CODES BEFORE STARTING!!!
Ok if the MAF is the cause of your CEL (Check Engine Light) then it will go out on start.
(Keep in mind that your allowing unfiltered air into your engine so this should only be used for a quick check)
If your CEL doesnt go out your MAF may not be the problem.
Now that this is finished you would reinstall all covers and Done!
SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT:
TOOLS NEEDED:
1 - Torx Socket... Not sure on the size.
1 - 3" Extention 3/8" Drive
1 - 3/8" Drive Socket Wrench
1 - 17mm Spark Plug Socket
1 - Spark Plug Boot Removal Wrench
Pen & Paper
Parts Needed:
12 - Spark Plugs
1 - Gapper
1 - container of Anti-Sieze
Rags.
REPAIR:
Use the 10mm Socket wrench and remove the Negative and
Positive Cables.
Remove the plastic intake tubes, just compress the tubes and they pull off.
Remove the front Engine cover. Pull the end closest to the front up the car up then toward you.
Remove the Rear Engine cover. Pull Up the front and then the rear end.
Now just as a tip I started with the passenger side of the engine, because it has more room you'll find this side of the engine is a bit easier to work on and if you can do it on this side your not going to be able to finish the other.
Ok before your start verify the battery is disconnected.
Draw a diagram of the wires so that you dont forget.
remove the Torx bolts from the 3 Coils on top of the Valve cover.
Remove the top coil connection cables
start in the front of the car and remove the spark plug boots.
KEEP COILS IN ORDER. It shouldnt matter IMO, however IDK if it does and I wouldn't try it.
Ok just as a hint your first 3 plugs from front to back do dont have to take you socket apart,
But 4 & 5 you'll have to seperate your extention from the socket in order to get it on the Plug.
The last spark plug is a bit of a pain. You will have to put the socket on the plug, then the extention, then the socket.
When you remove the last plug you will have to take it all apart to get it back out too.
Gap your new plugs, apply Anti-Sieze to the threads and install.
Replace coils boots(They will click when they are on all the way) and install coils from back to front.
Replace top connections on the coils. Done.
I would suggest reconnecting your battery at this point and starting your car. Only Because if you didnt get your spark plug boots back on all the way that cylinder may not fire and it would be alot easier to troubleshoot.
Same install technique on the Right side of the engine. (Be sure to Draw the diagram out again because its different on the Right side.)
Once done with both sides reinstall engine covers and intake tubes, and reconnect battery.
CHANGING OIL:
TOOLS NEEDED:
SMall MM Socket (Smaller than 10mm, not sure on size)
Socket wrench
1 - 13mm Socket for Drip Pan
Drip Pan (Capable of holding 8.5 qts)
Jack or Lift
Parts Needed:
9 - 1 QT 5w30 FULLY SYNTHETIC Oil I use Mobil 1
1 - Filter for C240 (Comes with 4 or 5 rubber seals various sizes)
OIL CHANGE:
Just to let you know I used a Lift to do mine. Make things so easy.
OK. To start let your car sit for at least 10 mins so most of the oil is in the oil pan.
Remove the Oil filter cap, located on the front drivers sized of the engine compartment, just in front of the oil cap. While your there, remove that cap as well.
Be sure to set some rags down so you dont get oil everywhere.and pull out the cap, which kinda look like a
Turkey baster.. LOL Anyway pull that bad boy out and set it in your drip pan and remove the filter.
Raise the vehicle and remove the rear engine skid plate. (There are 6 screws to get this thing off)
set aside the skid palte and screws and exposed now is the oil pan and 13mm oil pan bolt.
Set your drip pan in place and remove the bolt. Allow oil to drain.
Replace Bolt and skid Plate.
Lower vehicle. Install new filter.
On Filter cover remove 1 at a time old seals and replace with new ones that came with your filter.
Relace Oil Filter cap.
Fill with 8.5 Qts of Oil.
Turn key to the 2nd position and page through to the oil page and check level. If it says ok.
Replace Oil cap.
And your done.
Again if you find any errors please post.
NeV
Background before starting, my Check Engine light was on and my indications from the car were poor pickup or slugglish/surging acceleration. Like it wants to go smoothily but then choked a bit. After the car warmed up it wasnt so bad, but still present. Also my Codes given were Bank 1 Fuel Trim & Bank 2 Fuel Trim.
Replacing your MAF - AMM - MAS (Mass Air Flow - Air Mass Meter - Mass Air Flow : Sensor)
I did all 3 of these today. I have no experience with a Mercedes Benz, just a good working background in Mechanical work. It took me 3.5 hours to do all 3 repairs. I used a mechanics bay at work, that is provided by the Army. All tools and lifts.
Also I am NOT a MECHANIC, but these techniques should work for your c240. If you find any errors in this guide please post, it only helps us all.
ONE LAST THING. After I reconnected my battery I got a ESP MALFUNCTION - ESP - Electronic Stabiliy Program Not found or Not installed.
To correct this. Start the car. turn your wheel full left, then full right, then full left. Turn off the engine, and restart.
This technique Reprograms the ESP.
TOOLS Needed:
1 - Standard Flat Head Screw Driver
1 - 10mm socket and socket wrench and 10" Extenstion if you so choose.
Parts Needed:
1 MAF (Will be refered to as MAF for the rest of the post)
REPAIR:
Use the 10mm Socket wrench and remove the Negative and Positive Cables.
Remove the plastic intake tubes, just compress the tubes and they pull off.
Remove the front Engine cover. Pull the end closest to the front up the car up then toward you.
Remove the Rear Engine cover. Pull Up the front and then the rear end.
Remove the plastic ring around the top of the MAF.
Unplug the MAF
On the Back of the MAF there is a metal clip, I used my finger to pry it back, but you could use a screwdriver.
Remove the MAF and replace with new one.
Reconnect the Cable.
Attach Plastic Ring.
*At this point you can reconnect your battery and see if
your check engine light is still on.
DONT ERASE YOUR CODES BEFORE STARTING!!!
Ok if the MAF is the cause of your CEL (Check Engine Light) then it will go out on start.
(Keep in mind that your allowing unfiltered air into your engine so this should only be used for a quick check)
If your CEL doesnt go out your MAF may not be the problem.
Now that this is finished you would reinstall all covers and Done!
SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT:
TOOLS NEEDED:
1 - Torx Socket... Not sure on the size.
1 - 3" Extention 3/8" Drive
1 - 3/8" Drive Socket Wrench
1 - 17mm Spark Plug Socket
1 - Spark Plug Boot Removal Wrench
Pen & Paper
Parts Needed:
12 - Spark Plugs
1 - Gapper
1 - container of Anti-Sieze
Rags.
REPAIR:
Use the 10mm Socket wrench and remove the Negative and
Positive Cables.
Remove the plastic intake tubes, just compress the tubes and they pull off.
Remove the front Engine cover. Pull the end closest to the front up the car up then toward you.
Remove the Rear Engine cover. Pull Up the front and then the rear end.
Now just as a tip I started with the passenger side of the engine, because it has more room you'll find this side of the engine is a bit easier to work on and if you can do it on this side your not going to be able to finish the other.
Ok before your start verify the battery is disconnected.
Draw a diagram of the wires so that you dont forget.
remove the Torx bolts from the 3 Coils on top of the Valve cover.
Remove the top coil connection cables
start in the front of the car and remove the spark plug boots.
KEEP COILS IN ORDER. It shouldnt matter IMO, however IDK if it does and I wouldn't try it.
Ok just as a hint your first 3 plugs from front to back do dont have to take you socket apart,
But 4 & 5 you'll have to seperate your extention from the socket in order to get it on the Plug.
The last spark plug is a bit of a pain. You will have to put the socket on the plug, then the extention, then the socket.
When you remove the last plug you will have to take it all apart to get it back out too.
Gap your new plugs, apply Anti-Sieze to the threads and install.
Replace coils boots(They will click when they are on all the way) and install coils from back to front.
Replace top connections on the coils. Done.
I would suggest reconnecting your battery at this point and starting your car. Only Because if you didnt get your spark plug boots back on all the way that cylinder may not fire and it would be alot easier to troubleshoot.
Same install technique on the Right side of the engine. (Be sure to Draw the diagram out again because its different on the Right side.)
Once done with both sides reinstall engine covers and intake tubes, and reconnect battery.
CHANGING OIL:
TOOLS NEEDED:
SMall MM Socket (Smaller than 10mm, not sure on size)
Socket wrench
1 - 13mm Socket for Drip Pan
Drip Pan (Capable of holding 8.5 qts)
Jack or Lift
Parts Needed:
9 - 1 QT 5w30 FULLY SYNTHETIC Oil I use Mobil 1
1 - Filter for C240 (Comes with 4 or 5 rubber seals various sizes)
OIL CHANGE:
Just to let you know I used a Lift to do mine. Make things so easy.
OK. To start let your car sit for at least 10 mins so most of the oil is in the oil pan.
Remove the Oil filter cap, located on the front drivers sized of the engine compartment, just in front of the oil cap. While your there, remove that cap as well.
Be sure to set some rags down so you dont get oil everywhere.and pull out the cap, which kinda look like a
Turkey baster.. LOL Anyway pull that bad boy out and set it in your drip pan and remove the filter.
Raise the vehicle and remove the rear engine skid plate. (There are 6 screws to get this thing off)
set aside the skid palte and screws and exposed now is the oil pan and 13mm oil pan bolt.
Set your drip pan in place and remove the bolt. Allow oil to drain.
Replace Bolt and skid Plate.
Lower vehicle. Install new filter.
On Filter cover remove 1 at a time old seals and replace with new ones that came with your filter.
Relace Oil Filter cap.
Fill with 8.5 Qts of Oil.
Turn key to the 2nd position and page through to the oil page and check level. If it says ok.
Replace Oil cap.
And your done.
Again if you find any errors please post.
NeV
#2
01-17-2008, 12:24 PM
RE: 2001 C240 SPARK PLUGS, OIL CHANGE, MAF - HOW TO REPAIRS D.I.Y.
Pulled out of the drive today and after some surging and half cuttin out I stopped restarted and got a check engine light. Code was #5 Cylinder misfire. Make Sure you get those Spark Plug boots on well!!
#3
01-18-2008, 09:50 AM
RE: 2001 C240 SPARK PLUGS, OIL CHANGE, MAF - HOW TO REPAIRS D.I.Y.
GREAT posts and information!
This is the kind of thing we as owners can really use here!
I have some pics in my gallery of some DIY easy jobs for a C230K, four cyl.
Only one thing I would add here, and that would be to never try to gap an iridium style
spark plug!!!! (Not that you were even using them) but for our C230K cars, this is an option
and I don't want to see anybody waste four plugs trying it. The gap is set on those from the
manufacturer and it's a tiny, pointed "electrode" that is very fragile in comparison to the thicker
normal ones. Just a thought......keep those great posts w/ pics coming. And thanks.
This is the kind of thing we as owners can really use here!
I have some pics in my gallery of some DIY easy jobs for a C230K, four cyl.
Only one thing I would add here, and that would be to never try to gap an iridium style
spark plug!!!! (Not that you were even using them) but for our C230K cars, this is an option
and I don't want to see anybody waste four plugs trying it. The gap is set on those from the
manufacturer and it's a tiny, pointed "electrode" that is very fragile in comparison to the thicker
normal ones. Just a thought......keep those great posts w/ pics coming. And thanks.
#4
03-07-2008, 11:35 PM
RE: 2001 C240 SPARK PLUGS, OIL CHANGE, MAF - HOW TO REPAIRS D.I.Y.
It's 8 quarts on 2001 C240 Engines...don't overfill it because the oil warning light will come on...
-mar-
-mar-
#6
07-04-2008, 09:16 AM
RE: 2001 C240 SPARK PLUGS, OIL CHANGE, MAF - HOW TO REPAIRS D.I.Y.
Thanks for the DIY! We all appreciate the effort you made with the post! I was wondering why you have to remove the coil packs, why not just pull the spark plug boots off? When I change plugs on American cars, I pull one boot, change it's plug, replace the boot,then go to the next. No chance of mixing them up. Are the MB cars different? Mine is a 2004 C320 4Matic.
Thanks again,
Joe
Thanks again,
Joe
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