Hello and Happy Holidays to Tony and all.
I am new to the forum. Recently replaced/rebuilt my 1995 E320 auto transmission at 160,000 miles. The rebuilt transmission isshifting but not smoothly and feel like the clutch is almost gone during shifts. The mechanic explained this isdue to new german rebuiltsprings/parts etc. It isshifting and will improve after more driving. Now 5000 more miles, shifting issame.The mechanic explained there can beno adjustment as the shifting is controlled electronically.
But now the car intermittently cannot ignite and start atPark. The engine will ignite and start when in Neutral. This is more concern as it could be a safety issue. The mechanic don't know how to fix this.
What seems to the problem and how can it be saved?
Your expert advice would be greatly appreciated.
With regards.
MBZMDFAN

 

I see you are already getting several questions. It's nice to have a technician to as questions to.

I am working on two projects. The first is to replace my brakes and fluid. Second is the removal of the front headlamps. I will start off with the brakes in this posting to keep them separate.

I have a 1998 E320 W210.065. I am replacing the brakes on the front and rear. The light has not come on yet, but I am down to about 4mm on the front. Brake fluid is completely dirty so I am going to clean it all out with a pressure vac unit made for this car. I also believe it may be smart just to replace the sensors that turn on the light since they are so cheap.

First, are there any tips you can give me about this project at all?

I am not a stranger to replacing brakes pads and bleeding the fluid out withdomestic vehicles, but have never replaced brakes on an import before.

Fluid is really dirty and so I feel this is the best thing to do.

Also, I usually turn rotors before replacingbrake pads on any of my vehicles because we do alot of mountain driving. My rotors tend to get very shiney and therefore making it hard for new brake pads to function properly. Even if it is only a light "turn" of the rotors just enough to "rough" them up so to speak. I heard from two dealers though that Mercedes does not recommend turning theirrotors. What is you input on this?

Thanks In Advance

Mike

 

Here is my second project.

My headlamps on my 1998 E320 W210.065 are leaking water. If I drive in the rain or go through a carwash, I can have up to an inch of water in the headlamps. I know they are vented, per what the dealer told me, but they are not supposed to retain this much water. I have a great cleaning and buffing kit that the dealers use at my disposal and so want to renew the original headlamp assembly. It is my understanding that the front bumper needs to be partially dropped. Is this correct? If yes, is this something that I can do if I am mechanically inclined and have a good selection of tools available or do you recommend this being done by my local Mercedes body shop? I have rebuilt several things on many vehicles before and so consider myself a little better than a novice, but not a professional.

Are there any repair manuals out there paper or cd?

Thanks
Mike

 

This is ironic that you should post this right as I sign up as a new member. I am not a professional repair mechanic, but I just encountered a very similiar problem with my 1998 E320 W210.065. It ended up being the valve body, park stop, filter, and fluid flush. It would shift hard like I was getting rear ended, but only about once a month or so. The rest of the time it would do the same thing lightly or act as though it was slipping. One time, it slipped and the RPM went into the red, therefore disconnecting the transmission or putting it in nuetral. My tires even peeled out for a second after it caught the gear again. I had to shut the car off and back on to regain my transmission back.

This went on for over one year and no codes were being thrown to the computer and so my warranty company would not cover a breakdown of the transmission. Finally I had the valve body taken out and the system flushed completely. I'm sure everything was cleaned. I understand that the valve body in these models are very tricky and just a sliver of dirt or metal in the valves or springs can cause unwanted activity that throws no codes. The park stop was replaced, new filter put in and the correct fluid. I understand there are 3 types for my specific year. Now I don't have this problem anymore. I did feel a slight bump the other day, but I was going up hill and I think this is common because of the weight of the car pulling down hill when it shifts up. I don't know if this will help you, but it's worth sending this to you.

Thanks
Mike

 

Hi tony, just north of you in Dublin, welcome
need answer about what happens when you change the tire on a c class and use the wrong lugs

 

mbzex-
(This post is copied from a thread I started a few days ago with no responses...also pm sent to you with same info...):
I have a 1988 420sel which jumps to around 2000 rpm upon startup, or when shifted into park or neutral while running. I am beating the transmission to death! [] This vehicle has idle control valve part number 408 202/010/002, and I believe that this part could be at fault. Is there any obvious checks to be done before going ahead and replacing the valve? Thanks in advance!

 

i was reading through your post and was wondering if you found the remedy for your problem of your ML 63 stalling. there is a bulletin about a fuel line being to small, and it gets updated with a larger fuel line.

 

maybe you could help me with this, it would be much appreciated

I want to know how does a cars audio system work? I want to put in a multimedia deck, two 10" subs, and an amp in my c-class. I have know knowledge of this field at all. I don't know how to pair up amps and subs according to watts and ohm. I really need some help soI can start building my system. If you could educate me that would be very helpful.

Thank you

 

I have a 1995 Mercedez C220 and went to get it smog checked in Santa Maria, CA today. They said everything passed fine except that the "check engine" indicator bulb was burned out. Every now and then on rare occassions out of the blue it would flicker on for a few second. Whae I turn the key on, all of the indicator bulbs come on except thet "check engine" bulb.

How can I change that particular bulb? They said it will pass the smog test if I get that bulb fixed.

 

Hello Tony-
I need some help trouble shooting my 87' 300 D T. I just installed a new starter and can't get the car to engage the starter. I metered the small wire to the selenoid and read 10.4 volts when the ignition switch is engaged. I can't find a starter relay. Is there one? I have tried to start the car in neutral also thinking there might be a neutral safety switch- no result- is there a neutral safety switch? if so where is it?
Thanks in advance for the help!
John