a few power-related questions
#1
08-08-2013, 02:59 AM
a few power-related questions
first, an intro to my plans.
-purchase a OM617.95x powered mercedes as a winter car.
-check injectors for good spray pattern as well as all other necessary preventative maintenance.
- use the OM617 as a diesel power plant in my 99 cherokee with a warped head.
end motor doesn't have a power goal, but i would like to have one running as efficiently as possible.
now fer the questions.
Can a electric fan swap be done without causing bad coolant temps?
what junkyard modern turbo is easy to swap to and common?
Is running an inter cooler worth the hassle for a none "track" motor?
-purchase a OM617.95x powered mercedes as a winter car.
-check injectors for good spray pattern as well as all other necessary preventative maintenance.
- use the OM617 as a diesel power plant in my 99 cherokee with a warped head.
end motor doesn't have a power goal, but i would like to have one running as efficiently as possible.
now fer the questions.
Can a electric fan swap be done without causing bad coolant temps?
what junkyard modern turbo is easy to swap to and common?
Is running an inter cooler worth the hassle for a none "track" motor?
#2
08-08-2013, 10:16 PM
Unfortunately there will be a few issues.
First, you cannot legally swap an older engine into a newer model year chassis. Especially one more than a decade newer.
Second, the OM617 is a front sump and the oil pump is low in the pan so it cannot be converted to a mid/rear sump. That means you will need a suspension lift for the engine to clear the front axle and even then you will have to modify the lower pan to clear the front differential's travel range.
Yes. Heat is not a threat to this engine since it is all iron. It can run up to 100*c constantly without damage and 120*c max. Set the electric fans to trigger at 90-94*c, there is a bunghole on the thermostat cover that can be tapped for 1/8NPT for a sensor/switch.
Very few. Most junkyard turbos are either too small or just as an antique model as it already has. There are no turbos older than 2003 that are worth the time to swap and the very few acceptable turbo models were ever sold in the USA. Which means you will have to buy one second hand off eBay or an internet forum in order to get something from a European car or newer light duty truck.
Garrett GT2056 is minimum size but you will have surge issues below 2000rpm. Holset HE221W is the perfect range but you will have better luck finding a golden goose egg in a junkyard before that.
No. Stock boost for this engine is only 9psi and an intercooler would allow boost to be lowered by only 2 psi to get the same airflow. The efficiency gain from that would be negligible.
First, you cannot legally swap an older engine into a newer model year chassis. Especially one more than a decade newer.
Second, the OM617 is a front sump and the oil pump is low in the pan so it cannot be converted to a mid/rear sump. That means you will need a suspension lift for the engine to clear the front axle and even then you will have to modify the lower pan to clear the front differential's travel range.
Yes. Heat is not a threat to this engine since it is all iron. It can run up to 100*c constantly without damage and 120*c max. Set the electric fans to trigger at 90-94*c, there is a bunghole on the thermostat cover that can be tapped for 1/8NPT for a sensor/switch.
Very few. Most junkyard turbos are either too small or just as an antique model as it already has. There are no turbos older than 2003 that are worth the time to swap and the very few acceptable turbo models were ever sold in the USA. Which means you will have to buy one second hand off eBay or an internet forum in order to get something from a European car or newer light duty truck.
Garrett GT2056 is minimum size but you will have surge issues below 2000rpm. Holset HE221W is the perfect range but you will have better luck finding a golden goose egg in a junkyard before that.
No. Stock boost for this engine is only 9psi and an intercooler would allow boost to be lowered by only 2 psi to get the same airflow. The efficiency gain from that would be negligible.
in my county it is completely legal to do a motor swap of any kind in any car. the only thing we have emissions wise is a check of your gas cap seal.
the jeep will have a 3" suspension lift, and i know that the crossmember may need to be moved/altered (people that have done the swap in the past have) and bump stops will prevent the axle from banging into the pan.
from what i gather the HE221W is a good replacement for a daily use manual transmission vehicle? i tend to stick to the bottom of the power band, and as long as it doesnt surge above 1500 Rpms, it would suite me well.
from a bit of google-fu i see these are used in medium sized diesel trucks. would you happen to know which ones? if i have to order a new one, i have a friend in a diesel shop that should be able to get one cheaper than online digging will, as it seams these are just as rare as you say they are.
#3
08-09-2013, 02:37 AM
Take a look at this site: Mercedes Diesel 4x4.com OM617 Jeep Conversion Kits
Yes, the 221 spools up much quicker than the stock antique T3 and does not surge at low speeds. Nearly all Garrett GT, GTA and GTB models will either surge at low speeds or choke at maximum RPM. Only their newest GTX series meet an OM617's flow and pressure requirements.
Cummins uses their engines in a very wide variety of vehicles and industrial applications. Your best bet would be 2008+ delivery vans like UPS and FedEx use. I got mine from a VW TDI forum for $500.
The part number of mine is 4040378, PP98865 also works if you are dealing with a Cummins parts distributor like RMC.
Cummins uses their engines in a very wide variety of vehicles and industrial applications. Your best bet would be 2008+ delivery vans like UPS and FedEx use. I got mine from a VW TDI forum for $500.
The part number of mine is 4040378, PP98865 also works if you are dealing with a Cummins parts distributor like RMC.
my last question is it possible to route the cooled oil supply directly to the turbo to keep temps and lubrication at its best?
thanks again for all the advice.
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