Regular Gasoline in Diesel Engine
 

I put 5.97 Galons of Regular into my 1983 300DT. What should I do. The car managed to get me home and it has not stalled or anything of the sort. It had about half a tank of Diesel before I put the Regular in. HELP!!! Should I do something? pump it out? where do I dispose of it? Should I leave it as is? will my engine mess up ?:(

Thank you kindly for your attention.

thank you so much for your response and advice.
You know what the ironic thing was? I actually DID use a green pump. The Diesel pump was orange ...wawawaaaa.

If I might ask .....would you recommend converting a Diesel car to run on cooking oil?
Thanks again

From Brian in CA
 

I am currently struggling with the same thing. I was having girl problems (distracted) and put 8.5 gallons of gasoline into my 300D. I owned the car for years too.

I got the advice from a shop to add some some oil into the gas tank, top it off with diesel and run it for 15-20 minutes until I ran the gas out.

Turned out I wished I had the tank drained. I had the filters changed, and it is still not the same.

It runs rough at stop lights but only some of the time. All of a sudden it may lose power, but not stall. Then it starts running ok again.

If you have the cash, you may want to just have it drained and be done with it.

I have been running my 1992 300D on biodiesel for 18,000 miles with no trouble. Don't think I would try straight veggie oil but people do it where I live.

Veggie oil is fine
 

You know what is funny Forcedinduction? Ypou have no idea what you are talking about! I and three other good friends have been running filtered waste veggie oil in our 83 SD's for the past 3 years! We each have a Love craft filter and heat exchanger assembly and not one of us has had any issues or problems with running the waste veggie oil. Have you ever ran your car on Veggie oil and run into problems? If not, then I would like to suggest that you stop telling people that this is way to ruin a car. Thanks, B-

@ForcedInduction:

You've helped me probably a half dozen times now in the past what? 4 years on this and a few other forums and I *really* appreciate that. Infact I have a new thread up here trying to figure out my 4spd tranny issues.

But I just wanted to say that, while I'm not a expert I am approaching 'hardened veteran status' when it comes to bio-fuels specifically waste cooking oil. (in fact all the questions i've asked have been on converted benz's) And I'd say I'm am approaching 140,000 miles total on straight waste cooking oil (this is un-pre-filtered, un-pre-settled dumpster oil actually) on my 300D and my 240D combined (about 115-120k on the 300d, and the rest on the 240d) I've even driven these cars coast to coast several times (during winter on I70/80!)

At a combined avg of 28mpg (which is high actually, considering 240 gets 30mpg on a good day and the 300d is...eh... 23-24avg) I'm looking at $15,000 in fuel savings. Granted if I was paying 'cash' and not just time handling the wvo for this fuel I would have driven WAY less miles then that so saying $15k is a bit subjective. My savings would have been much less (maybe half) but I would not have had the pleasure to travel so much and that has a cost too in other ways.

Even at $7500 in savings, thats right about the entire amount ive invested in both cars combined including repairs for this entire time.

Its really unbelieveable, essentially free cars and nearly free travel. I did 1400 miles on 1 gallon of diesel fuel in feb of 2008 going from san fran to NJ.

Both of these cars could burst into flames sitting in the driveway right now and burn to slag and Id buy and convert another. I'm sure I've been a little lucky. But even then I'm a believer.

I DO believe that by running WVO (even the way I do) I am shortening engine lifespan. my 300D is starting to get tired. I just rebuilt the injectors and after 100k on wvo they were pretty blackened/coked but the new tips don't seem to make any difference on sound/performance/cold starting. It still needs a 1 second dose of ether in the intake hose to start on a 70F day (glow plugs all work, and even warm the side of the block if I cycle them enough... wtf could it be!?)

Even if I'm going to turn a 500k engine on #2D into a 200k on WVO engine, I really don't care, That rebuild was already paid for 3 years ago. There are some BAD conversions out there. I really believe that few of them have it right, infact I think my home-brew conversions are the best I've ever seen if price is any object and they've proved themselves to me.

fyi, estimated total mileage on 300d is 220-230k and 240 is 375k'ish.

Not trying to argue, but in my world, wvo has allowed me to live a frugal lifestyle and do things/travel like I would never have been able too. Its changed my entire perception on travel/economy/ecology/politics and more. I can't live without it and I can't ever go back. Its pure electric homebuilt for me when wvo is so controlled it costs the same as buying fuel.

Joe, If it works for you, it works for you.

I would still run the cleanest diesel available. I would not trust my two MB diesels and a 6V92TA in my motorhome on animal or plant derived fuels. Call me old fashioned, but when I see OTR truckers using other fuels, I might reconsider.

To your point if you target 200K miles instead of 500K, go for it. I just like the odds in my favor, knowing the cost differencial.

Good Luck,

So basically I want to know how much It would cost to get this draining? Is it as simply as going under my car and taking the plug off and then re-plugging once empty and THEN putting diesel in the tank again? Or is there more?

briansok…where did you get your car converted? How much was it?

You can add a pint of 30 weight engine oil to the tank. The big problem is that the fuel is dry and there is not enough lubrication for the fuel injection pump and the injection nozzels.
Adding the gas as you have done will result in a lower HP output from the engine. The lube oil added in this amount, will lube the injection pump. Adding excessive amounts will clog the fuel filters and reduce flow or even stop the engine.
It is always a good idea to add a fuel treatment winter and summer to your diesel fuel. The diesel fuel we now get has had the sulphure removed and is very dry. Using a fuel treatment such as Howes diesel fuel treatment, will restore the lubrication for you injection pump and nozzels. You will also find less diesel knock at all RPM's

If you are talking about additives being a waste, I agree. If you are talking about sulpher content in today's fuels then why do they call it ULTRA LOW SULPHER fuel.
As far as the gasoline in the tank, add some oil. the detergent action of the gasoline will probably knock some gunk out of the pump and/or injectors. There is a chance of some of it hanging up in the fuel regulator on the pump, but it can be easily enough cleaned up.
Good luck

I know I am not a chemist, however, I do have an engineering degree. I do know enough chemistry to know that waste veggie oil is nothing like BIO diesel. Biodiesel is called "bio" simply because it originates from veggie oil. It goes through a CHEMICAL change (which includes and extreme HIGH temperature heating with additives like methanol and lye, dry washing and a couple of filtering stages to rid the fluid of any glycerin particles before it is fit to use) once it goes through the chemical change it literally become diesel fuel... it is no longer veggie oil. It has a much LOWER sulfur content but a much HIGHER oxygen content and that is why it cleans out your fuel system so well, and requires filter changes when you switch over. Certain vehicles may be able to run straight veggie oil and it if works, great. Keep in mind it is a RISK...just be careful.

There is a drain plug on the fuel tank. Just have a suitable container available that will hold the amount of fuel you have in the tank. Drain and then refill with fresh diesel. You may need to prime filters and the IP. Not quite the same a s running out of fuel and everything is dry. I would try start it after filling tank and if it stops or won't start then prime the filters and the IP.

+1, and I really like that word.