Hello, everyone! I just bought an '88 190d 2.5 with 130K miles. I'm new to Mercs and diesels, so probably I'll be here plaguing you with questions every chance I get!

Like these two:

I understand that most power window problems are due to the switches. Is it just dirty contacts usually, or is the switch itself bad? Also, can I swap the passenger-side switch out for the driver-side switch for a temporary fix if it is, in fact, the switch itself?

This isn't particularly a diesel question, but it does pertain to the car: The car has an aftermarket head unit. The guy who sold it to me insisted that the CD player works (I'll believe him because of the CD he left in the unit). The head unit seems to function, but I'm not getting any sound. Any advice?

Thanks, everyone, in advance. I'm glad to be here.

 

What are the particlulars of the power window problem? Which windows? The driver front/passenger rear are on one fuse and the other two on another (at least for my 85 300D, don't know about the 190). My driver's rear went down but not up, so I knew it wasn't a fuse (passenger front worked). So here's what I did. I tapped the door while pushing the switch in case the motor was "stuck". I tried all switches console and door so I assumed that both switches probably weren't bad. I went to the rear door switch again one more time to listen if the motor was working and maybe the window was just off track (otherwise it would be a bad motor or dirty/crooked track type problem), but as I did it came up! That is where it will stay.

For the audio, try both the CD and tuner. You could take off the speaker grill and run a meter across the speaker leads and see if you get anything. If not, I would pull the head unit and check that the speaker leads are actually connected. If the car had an external amp and it was removed perhaps the speakers and head unit were not reconnected. You could also check the speaker outputs from the head unit with the meter, in case the speaker wire between the head unit and speakers is cut. It's hard to diagnose when you don't know what the previous owner may have done. My car has no radio nor speakers; it was a police impound and all I have is cut wires where the components should be. Now I get to install a complete system.

 

Thanks. It's both the front and rear driver-side windows, and I do not hear the motor even trying to bring the windows down (I'm fortunate that, if they must be stuck, they are stuck up, not down), which leads me to believe it's the switch.

When I first picked up the car, I got static out of the speakers (with the tuner on) before the power antenna went up. It cut out rather suddenly, I guess, though I wasn't listening when it did. I may have to yank the unit out and see if something came unhooked back there. I'm not sure if there's a reset button on the unit, but I'll check before I do anything drastic. I'm actually glad that this is the extent of the problems with the car--sucks to have install a complete system (I will eventually, but having something in the meantime will be nice, no matter how awful it sounds).

Thanks for the reply.

 

Again, I can only relate to my 300D, but if you have both a door switch and a console (or remote) switch, I'd try both. It is unlikely (but possible) that both are not working. If you suspect the switch and ruled out fuses, you could pull the switch and check the wires with a meter or testlight while operating it while still plugged in. I'd save motor/window track inspection for last since it is the most work. Please let us know the final analysis.

Does the unit still get power (does the face light up)? If the speakers made sound (static), then your wire connections from the radio should be OK. It is possible that if it has wiring harnesses that something could have come loose (that could explain static too). If the radio has power that's what I'd check next; you're going to have to get behind it to check. I'm sort of glad there's no sound system in mine, as now I have an excuse to put in a killer system. Well, as killer as you can get with the wimpy speaker options available.

 

Your window solution will not work. and most of the time it is a motor/regulator problem, not switch. sellers jsut say that it is only the switch b/c a switch is $10 to replace versus a $125 regulator/ motor. And these are no ambidextrous. However, a front left motor will fit a back window, or vice versa and same with the right. Your best bet is finidn which of the two types of motors they used in your car is (by peeling the door panel off and looking inside!) and going online to ask junkyards for it.