I also did the front turn marker and turn signal bulbs. The whole conversion was 300 dollars or so with resistors for the turn flashers.
I do have the cruise control problem as it appears to the unit that both blubs are out and it does not work. Didn't know if anyone on this forum has done this but here are some pics. They dont do the LED's justice as they are bright as all get out.
Just need to figure out a way to trick the cruis control.
Can anyone help with the cruise control?

 

[QUOTE=ForcedInduction;158819]The cruise system needs a ground path through the switched side of the brake lights to work. With LED's being diodes thats not possible.

Any ideas how to do that without switching back to bulbs for the brake lights? I could always run two LED and two standard bulbs as i did add the two lights to the brake circut that were empty.

Here are the LED's i used which have a VERY wide even spread of light and i have to say they are brighter and clearer to all my friends who follow me day and night. All i see are brighter lights and more concise flash with the LED's.

Your input is always appreciated and thank you.


1 AMBER 92 PARK/TURN BULBS 1157 2057 | 1 PAIR $49.99 $49.99
2 PLATINUM RED 7 WATT HIGH POWER 20 LED LIGHT BULBS 1156 | 1 PAIR B/O $79.99 $20.00 $119.98
1 RED 1156 7.5W HIGH POWER LED LIGHT BULBS | 1 PAIR $49.99 $49.99
1 PLATINUM AMBER 20 LED 7W BLINKER/TURN SIGNAL LIGHT BULBS 1156 2056 | 1 PAIR $79.99 $79.99

All are at VLED's

 

FI.......Thanks a bunch for letting us know about cruise control inop when converting to LED's. I start off by experimenting with rear tail and brake lights and discovered the CC inop issue. I will go back to original and consider the $65 I spent on LED's as a lesson learned because the light bulb failure warning on the inst panel stays on constantly now with LED's.

 

FI..............Thanks again. I will look into that option. I don't mind trying that option for the tail and brake lights. I only hope the provider of the current bulbs will consider an exchange. Bought from www.superbrightleds.com

 

FI and ALL considering this LED option please note response from the company. They say to use a resistor p/n RL-650-K that must be cut into your original wiring AND MOUNTED!

My choice is to go back to original.

LED Light Staff Response

Since the resistors are drawing enough power to simulate a 20 watt bulb they get just as hot as the bulb would. You are correct about placement that is why we have the warning note on the installation instructions to keep them away from painted surfaces and plastics.