HELp !! 1983 300d , battery is overcharging .why ??
#1
HELp !! 1983 300d , battery is overcharging .why ??
I have changed the alternator and still battery is being overcharged , upwords of 19v or more . The charging increases as rpm increases . prior to this happening a fuse was blown in the fuse box that controls the horn etc. another problem is an intermittent tachometer , it works and then cuts out when ever it wants . I was told by a mechanis friend to check to see if there is voltage in the coolant (millivolts) and it appears as though there is . my battery is getting really hot and stinking up my whole passenger compartment . battery is not ruined and still starts car and holds a charge . to much of a charge actually it was at 14 volt when i put the meter to it . It is a brand new almost 200 dollar battery , but still under warrenty so if its permafried i get a new one . Please help with test ideas and part replacement suggestions .
on a side note my blower motor had been really loud sounding like it was stuck . it increases speed as rpms increase . it seems to be freed up and working now but still responds to throttle increases . my heater also when switched on will stay hot for a couple minutes and then blow ambient temperature air . i mess with the wheel and sometimes it will get hot again and then cool off after a couple minutes . this too is very frustrating .
Could the heater , and blower motor and tachometer , be somehow effecting the overcharge of battery ????? HELP HELP HELP !!!
on a side note my blower motor had been really loud sounding like it was stuck . it increases speed as rpms increase . it seems to be freed up and working now but still responds to throttle increases . my heater also when switched on will stay hot for a couple minutes and then blow ambient temperature air . i mess with the wheel and sometimes it will get hot again and then cool off after a couple minutes . this too is very frustrating .
Could the heater , and blower motor and tachometer , be somehow effecting the overcharge of battery ????? HELP HELP HELP !!!
#2
Good chance the voltage regulator on the back of the alternator is on it way out. A doner or new one can be swapped without pulling the alternator. Try a voltage drop test to the power and ground wires.
When the problem is found, you might want to swap the battery out as being defective just for good measures.
Tin
When the problem is found, you might want to swap the battery out as being defective just for good measures.
Tin
#3
i replaced the battery and alternator
This started when i had my old battery and i thought the battery was the culprit ,( thought that the old battery had gone bad cause it was stinking and gassin out the inside of my car . ) so like i said in the first post ' I REPLACED THE OLD BATTERY WITH A BRAND NEW 180.00 BATTERY . ' This NEW battery is getting cooked , even worse then the old battery , so I figured that the regulator was bad , and went ahead and replaced the alternator , which comes with a brand new internal regulator , this didnt solve the problem . I am out of ideas , unless maybe a bad ground , or short , or something . PLEASE READ POST AGAIN . there is also a charge being carried in my coolant , when measured in millivolts . HELP HELP HELP !!!!!!!! what should i check of replace next . Im an awesome mechanic but not real skilled with electrical troubleshooting , beyond the obvious . I love my 83 300d , and need it back on the road . Driving my 3/4 ton old *** gmc long bed pick up is killing me with its ****ty MPG .
#5
really ?? ******* ??? lol ! far from it . possibly a little frustrated , but '*******' never ! probably the nicest guy you could wanna ever meet ...me <<<<<<<<------ Thanks for the help . I only ran the motor with the new alternator for a couple minutes at most so ill be going to get a new battery today and install it .
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