84 300SD CV Joint
It is better to replace it with a re-manufactured half shaft if you are handy.
As for me I replaced the inner CV joint with a 'half shell' one for $20. I decided it was too much work to remove and replaceit, you need to open up the differential and it is a pain.I have done 13K miles with the 'half shell' and so far so good. You kind of glue them together but I have to custom cut the big end a bit. I then use hose clamps to clamp it to the shaft. I put a bit of RTV to it for good measure. What I have done probably is OK with the inner joint as it does not flex too much.
Good luck.
83 300D, 87 300SDL
As for me I replaced the inner CV joint with a 'half shell' one for $20. I decided it was too much work to remove and replaceit, you need to open up the differential and it is a pain.I have done 13K miles with the 'half shell' and so far so good. You kind of glue them together but I have to custom cut the big end a bit. I then use hose clamps to clamp it to the shaft. I put a bit of RTV to it for good measure. What I have done probably is OK with the inner joint as it does not flex too much.
Good luck.
83 300D, 87 300SDL
OEM axles are steep for a reason. Remanufactured axles usely just regrind the bearing surface which is casehardend = .020" aprox they grind away at that. In a lot of cases remans only last around 70k and OEM goes +150k How long do you plan on owning it, and do you want to do it again. No savings if you have to do it twice + alot of work. I have found that some oem parts are worth the extra money some not.1 example was a 67 mustang replaced the lower ball joint with moog yearly. Went to a salvage yard got a used control arm with 65k and the factor ball joint. Lasted 3 years, replaced the other side oem and 4 years and counting.
87 300D
87 300D
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Benz_190
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Mar 10, 2006 02:12 PM




