1982 300 Turbo diesel Oil leaks, engine shake,
#1
01-15-2006, 10:43 AM
1982 300 Turbo diesel Oil leaks, engine shake,
I just bought my 300 turbo diesel for $600 with 234,00 miles. Car had been sitting for 2 years. I primed the injector pump(which leaks) easy replacement? after changeing the battery and it started right up. I drove the car home approx. 30 miles. when i got home I noticed it pouring oil, I checked the oil and it was overfilled. Would this cause it to leak oil possibly out of an overflow or blow-by?
I have the common tranny trouble shifting and hesitation at start out
-where are the vaccum lines located? Should the filter and fluid be replaced?
The engine jerks the car sideways when you turn the key off. IS this normal or possibly a broken motor mount?
THanks
#2
01-15-2006, 05:14 PM
RE: 1982 300 Turbo diesel Oil leaks, engine shake,
I am not aware of any designed oil vents for over filled crank cases. I would confirm first that it was in fact overfilled by draining the oil, over 7 or 8 quarts is overfilled and bad to run the engine if this is the case.
I would try to locate where the leak is coming from. If your engine has a lot of blow-by and worn front or rear main seals, the blow-by (worn rings) produces air pressure within the block thus pushing oil out worn leaky seals. Start your engine and loosen the oil cap slowly but don't remove it, the cap should be able to stay put without blowing off. In fact, there should even be a tiny amount of vacuum sucking the cap down. If you cant keep the cap from blowing off without tightening it, you have blow-by!
A leaking vac hose will render the transmission modulator valve function-less which will make shift points bang hard. If doing the opposite (flaring) or racing between shift points it could be worn K-1 spring, or worn disc's, or modulator out of adjustment.
Worn engine mounts are common and will cause the engine to jump around even when shutting the engine off!
Leaking IP, (injection pump) and depending on where the leak is, is not usually a DIY job unless it's leaking from injection lines or return hoses...those you can do yourself but almost anything else that leaks from the IP it's self should be repaired by an IP tech.
I would try to locate where the leak is coming from. If your engine has a lot of blow-by and worn front or rear main seals, the blow-by (worn rings) produces air pressure within the block thus pushing oil out worn leaky seals. Start your engine and loosen the oil cap slowly but don't remove it, the cap should be able to stay put without blowing off. In fact, there should even be a tiny amount of vacuum sucking the cap down. If you cant keep the cap from blowing off without tightening it, you have blow-by!
A leaking vac hose will render the transmission modulator valve function-less which will make shift points bang hard. If doing the opposite (flaring) or racing between shift points it could be worn K-1 spring, or worn disc's, or modulator out of adjustment.
Worn engine mounts are common and will cause the engine to jump around even when shutting the engine off!
Leaking IP, (injection pump) and depending on where the leak is, is not usually a DIY job unless it's leaking from injection lines or return hoses...those you can do yourself but almost anything else that leaks from the IP it's self should be repaired by an IP tech.
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