08 R320 CDI 4matic Engine good?
 

I have recently purchased an 08 R320 CDI 4matic. Any one know if this diesel engine has any known issues?

I read some say the change from cast iron to Aluminum after 06 makes this engine inferior but since its diesel any reason it still wont get 300k+ miles before its goes kaput?

I also did some homework and heard many Dailmer/Chrysler Mercedes built between 03-06 and some of 07 were just terrible reliability wise so thats why I got a 08 instead of a 06.

Well i asked a few other forums before buying it and got no negative responses.

The 06 has majorly bad consumer comments about it, not the diesel motor but the car in general.

Is the exhaust filter like the catalytic converter or the bluetec fluid technology that filters the exhaust?

I did not know that thank you. Do the older diesels have DPF filter too that needed to be replaced? Is 13K what my R320 has programed in its computer to change oil at? What would you recommend as a better mileage to change at?

I really want to keep this as a 300k+ motor and your advice is well appreciated.

No my 2006 does not have a DPF it has it has a EGR and a cat and that is
it.
I wanted to get a 06 due to the fact that new Emissions components that where added on the 2007's.
With out the new emission components there is less to go wrong.
My old 2003 VW TDI diesel was setup the same way as my CDI and
I add 42 hp and 95 ftlbstq.
Next week I'm adding 35 hp and 50 ftlbstq to my CDI for 236 hp and 419 fltlbstq and will not even pop the hood.

Its hard to be a Gear Head.

Wouldnt removing the via programing the checks only result in it not telling me when it finally does get clogged up? Shouldn't I just wait till it starts getting clogged, then instead of replacing it just get someone to hollow it out and put a dummy pipe AND then remove the "checks" in the software at that time?

The dealer wont do that I'm sure and it will be out of warranty by then I'm sure. Would a regular diesel workshop be my best option to do that hollowing and programing out of the DPF checks?

Also I was reading articles about cast iron and Aluminum blocks and they were saying cast iron is hard to rebuild cuz you cant fix cracks and stuff as easy as aluminum. I'm a noob i guess but what is the difference and why? Also when might I expect to have to "rebuild" my motor. I can get 200-300k mi with unleaded aluminum engines wouldn't it be the same or better even with an aluminum diesel?

Again Uber thanks for the advice. I'm glad for diesel gear heads like you.

I have a Aluminum block in my Land Rover its the weakest link in the truck, over heat it just a little and you will drop a sleeve that the piston runs in and that is a hard fix if it can be done.
With you are running 18 to one and on a gas motor its around 9.5 to one so you have much more compression and that is hard on a motor so diesels have more main bearings on the crank than a gas motor to help with this.

The best thing to do is drive it hard at least once a week to keep the soot from building up don't over heat it and change it oil very often with Mobil One, I would not go over 10K on a oil change.

In a few years there most likely be a way to get preformance parts from the E.U. imported that may take care of the problem."Exhaust"

They make parts for the in line six that will give about six hundred Hp with a stock bottom end.
Most of the parts are from Finland.