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I have trouble starting my 1995 W202 C280. From time to time, the engine could not be started but instead the cranking sound from the engine could be heard and both the infrared lights (red & green) on the rear view mirror will start to flash alternatively. I have to keep turning the ignition and the sound of the cranking keeps occurring. Eventually I gave up and took out the key and waited in the car for about 2-3 minutes and then the car would start up back to normal as if nothing had happened.
This case doesn’t happen all the time but I could say this is a hot start problem? It only happens unexpectedly, say that I’m going to the bank for 10 mins and return back to the car and this hot start problem will occur; leaving me to wait in the car for 3 mins before it could start again.
Anyone has encountered this problem in their 1995 C280 W202? I have been told by the dealer to replace:
· New keys
· New battery
· A voltage regulator
I have done these 3 replacements and the problem still occurs! This has been going on for 5 months now.
I am suspecting the alternator or the ECU (I have just installed and programmed my ECU 5 months ago)may cause all these intermittent hot start problems!? I would really appreciate any comments from you guys?
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if the green and red flash alternately, it's just the key battery. if both, then the DAS or drive authorization system (key recognition).
just replace the key battery.
if the car cannot crank, then might be the car battery or alternator? if it cranks, then it can be fuel pump or crankshaft position sensor. the gap on the crankshaft position sensor between the flywheel was too wide. replace it with modified part number.
if the green and red flash alternately, it's just the key battery. if both, then the DAS or drive authorization system (key recognition).
just replace the key battery.
I have changed all the batteries in my keys and J have already ordered and new key and it has been synchronized as well. It still didn't solve the problem
Quote:
ORIGINAL: sleepwalker
if the car cannot crank, then might be the car battery or alternator? if it cranks, then it can be fuel pump or crankshaft position sensor. the gap on the crankshaft position sensor between the flywheel was too wide. replace it with modified part number.
The car cranks but the infrared lights (RED & Green) in the rear view mirror will keep flashing. Therefore it keeps cranking when i turn the key to start the engine. I have to wait for about 3 minutes and restart the car, it will start as normal.
These intermittent problems only started to occur after I installed and programmed a new ECU in my car (the old one was faulty).
Some mechanics say that the alternator may not be charging that cause this problem but i suspect that there may be some faults in the program in the ECU.
the first one is the Controller Area Network from transmission to the engine control unit got intermittent problem because the fault was stored and not present or current. this often happens and the fault can be ignored if it doesn't create any driveability problem.
the second fault is about the infrared remote control... that's your ignition key. no reception means that the signal is weak and cannot be recognized by the control unit. i will send you more information about this problem.
for now i got to rest for it is very late where i am. please tell me the VIN or chassis number of your car. i will check every deatails about service informations and the time of production.
Thank you very much for your feedback on the above tiems.
1)
Quote:
the first one is the Controller Area Network from transmission to the engine control unit got intermittent problem because the fault was stored and not present or current. this often happens and the fault can be ignored if it doesn't create any driveability problem
Is this fault erasable? I shall be having an appointment with the MB dealer in 2 weeks times. Apparently he does not know about this fault yet.
2)
Quote:
the second fault is about the infrared remote control... that's your ignition key. no reception means that the signal is weak and cannot be recognized by the control unit. i will send you more information about this problem
I really appreciate your kind assistance for the further information for No. (2)
I shall e-mail you my chassis number soon. I got dig up my w202 briefcase at home; I'm in the office now.
Thank you so much for the attachments of the trouble shooting manuals.
The 2nd attachment of your trouble shooting manuals really matched my problem. The other 2 does not really relate, I think? (I may be wrong)
I just want know what is a RCL Control Module? It is something to do with the ECU?
Anyway, this is the first time I get see some specific information and recommendations from trouble shooting manuals such as your posted attachments. Very Impressed! Even the MB dealer in my country does provide such accurate information such as yours. If I am not being rude, may I know how did you get it?
Some mechanics I approached suggested that my alternator is not charging enough to support my ignition. Well, at least your manual makes more sense! DTC B 1703 (transponder not valid stored); so this fault may can erased?
*I still need your e-mail address so therefore I can e-mail you my VIN number.
that's the reason why i send some advance info for your choice. only you knows exactly how the car behaves. only by accurate diagnostic that we can eliminate such problem. at least it gives me an idea on narrowing the symptoms.
RCL is remote central locking. it means your key, the infrared reciever on your door handle, and the transponder on the ignition switch. once i get your VIN and see tha datacard, i will know if your key also send signal by frequency.
where is your country?
i get it from my software called WIS Workshop Information System. it is the only thing that mercedes-benz dealer refer to in everything about technicals. i always get the updated version, and also EPC Electronic Parts Catalog. aiisde from those, i also got complete for all cars like ETKA, ETK, TIS, ALLDATA, TOYOTA, VADIS, Star Diagnosis, GT1 Group Tester One for BMW, Etc. i like the challenges in repairing cars, and i always find the problem in less than two hours at most. it's just the matter of experience, right procedure, and bad mathematics like 1+1=3.
the fault can be deleted, but we call it a hard code because once that green and red light starts flashing, it is stored again.
i still can't find the link with the problem to your alternator. if it is not charging or not cranking, then you got a weak battery that might lead to it. besides, the alternator doesn't give a full charging capacity while you are in the process of cranking the engine.
Help! My intermittent start failures
