Hi,

So if the light started working correctly you must be in the correct area...i.e. the multi connector. Any corrosion across the CAN causes this problem.

The key point about protecting the PSE is the wiring run. Moisture tracks along the cable.

It has been known for the door switches to be out of adjustment (due to a manufacturing issue). easy to check with a multimeter. Remove the switch at the door, determine wiring colour, replace, go to PSE, disconnect multiconnectors and determine continuity to earth with the doors open/closed. If always On or Off irrespective of door position you have a problem with switch adjustment. they need to be packed out or a bit of dense self adhesive foam (or gum!) placed on the door.

Stuart

 

A month a go , my slk230 99 had too many problem.

It's start with the roof wasn't moving , either the glass, flasher light was going too fast, the S84 switch ( roof switch) wasn't blinking with ignition key in,my interior lamp was always on, like if a door was open. SO after looking to all switches ( roof and doors switches )and signal going to N10-3, I took a look at the pse pump.


I did some work on my PSE, I found some green deposit, my contacts was starting to be corroded. So, I did a few thing, like trying to recoat the pins with solder, please don't do this, it doesn't help. The real fix was to remove the connector, the white and the black completely, There you will find that top contacts, the one between the connector and the pc board are the one who goes bad. Clean contact, recoat with solder and re-install
the white and black connector will fix most of pse problem. I may admit, that it's not a so easy job, but, find a good electronic tech. , just be sure that he laugh when you ask if he can remove a connector from a pc board.

But, even after that, all my problem was still there. So, I conclude it was my N10-3 module, I tried to fix it, but I gave up, I was lucky enough to find a used one at 300$ ( MB here in Montréal was asking 1100$ ), so the used N10-3 from the scrap yard fix all problems. Having a good board, I was able to track the problem on my defective one, it's a tiny surface transistor A91 who in fact is a FMMT591ATA transistor cost about 40 cents.

The only problem I still have is when I depress the remote unlock door, the left side lights ( driver side ) don't always blink, I suspect another bad solder on the flasher module.

 

Interesting.

The PSE communicates with the N!0-3 via a dedicated body CAN (Green/White Hi/Lo).

The deposits on the PSE are the USUAL cause of PSE problems where you have either incorrect Bulb Failure Warning, Alarm, Dome light or Locking issues. Pneumatic issues are also down to the PSE but the pump rather than the electronics side.

The N10-3 is the vehicle power supply controller so since you had problems with the roof etc, which do not interface with the PSE, it looks like you had potentially more than one problem.

The blue deposit (copper salts) is due to moisture either direct or as condensation onto the (white) connector. Common problem.

I've tried to mend many PSE's and although dismantling is straightforward removing the white PC board connectors is not easy. The PCB connector needs to be removed to gain access to the circuitry under the connector. I agree that I've only succeeded with repair once out of about 10 times. Repair is usually effected by replacement of the PSE. 30GBP on eBay was the easy option. I suspect that the CAN controller gets fried somehow and I don't have the expertse to replace/reflash this.

The door signal is connected to the PSE which transmits a CAN signal to the N10-3. If this is compromised (short circuit across the CAN) the N10-3 has a problem.

I've never actually encountered a problem with the N10-3 other than issues created by the shorted CAN which can often be spotted by simply unplugging the CAN (white PSE connector). Of course functions operated by the PSE will be inop but often other power supply issues are cleared.

Any additional info you have on the workings of the N10-3 would be appreciated. Pics etc. I have detail pics of the PSE circuitry and hardware.

Incidentally I was not aware that the door switch signal played any part in the op of the roof. I often use my roof (UK spec) with the doors open (and of course shut).

In anticipation of any additional info. PM me if you prefer. Reverse engineering without specifications is often challenging!

Stuart

 

I have a SLK230 2001. The other night after work I unlocked my car with the key and the alarm sounded and would not stop by putting the key on the ignition. The car shut down and the trunk locked up. I had to have it towed to a MB dealership. They say I need an PSE pump for $1200 and the car needs to be rekeyed. Does this sound right? Also when driving my car suddenly brakes and turns to the right then the ESP/BAS light comes on. It's very nerve wracking! Will this also be corrected? I just bought this car 6 months ago . The other problem is the convertible top doesn't work. The rear windows go down and it sounds like it wants to work but no deal. I guess I expected more from MB.